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Found 86 results

  1. Ce guide "relativement court" a pour objectif de présenter le croiseur le plus puissant du moment le T10 Allemand, l'Hindenburg, ses forces et faiblesses et quelques conseils pour devenir un pro du spam. Je ne parlerai donc pas de l'ensemble des mécaniques / positionnement qu'il faut adopter en croiseur (sinon vous ne finirez jamais de lire ce topic) Avantages et inconvénients + Une puissante de feu inégalée à ce tier en croiseur + Un bon pool HP, seulement dépassé par le Henri IV et le Moskva. + Une exellente armure, surtout à courte portée + De très bonne torpilles à courte portée + Une bonne portée des cannons + L'hydro allemande + Le croiseur T10 le plus polyvalent - Une dissimulation médiocre, la pire après le Moskva et le Henri IV - Le croiseur T10 le plus lent - Pas de radar (et encore heureux !) Consommables Equipe de contrôle des avaries et Equipe de réparation en premium L'avion de spot vivement conseillé, pour taper du cuirassé hors de la portée de la base, où pour mieux viser sur un navire derrière une île. Hydro en général, Tir défensif pour des divisons avec des CV ou en compétitif 9v9 avec CV. Modules Slot 1: Armements principaux, modification 1 Slot 2: Système de contrôle des avaries, modification 1 Slot 3: Canons antiaériens, modification 2 ou Systèmes de visée, modification 1 -> le premier en compétitive 9v9 CV, le second en FFA et Clan battles Slot 4: Appareils à gouverner, modification 2 Slot 5: Système de dissimulation, modification 1 Slot 6: Batterie principale, modification 3 ou Système de contrôle de tir du canon, modification 2 -> le premier en FFA pour encore plus taper, le second en Clan battles et compétitive 9v9 CV, la portée supplémentaire y est obligatoire. Capitaines Le classique, pour le FFA http://shipcomrade.com/captcalc/1000000000100010000001100000100119 Le What is CV ? speshul Clan battles http://shipcomrade.com/captcalc/1110000001100010000001100000000119 Le sky cancer, KOTS et Seedz certified http://shipcomrade.com/captcalc/1010000000000010000001000000110119 Présentation générale L'hindenburg est un croiseur au DPM impressionnant, avec un potentiel de 12 obus de 203mm toutes les 8,8s avec le module de reload. Il bénéficie comme tous les croiseurs allemands d'obus HE améliorés, avec une pénétration à 1/4 contre 1/6 pour les autres croiseurs. 203 / 4, oui cela donne une pénétration sur du 50mm. Sa portée est bonne comparé aux autres T10, avec 17,9 de base et 20,3 avec le module de range. Elle peut bien sûr être étendu pendant 1min30 avec l'avion de spot. La rotation des tourelles est bonne et permet même de se passer d'expert tireur d'élite en cas de manque de points de capitaine. Les torpilles sont de courte portée avec 6km seulement, mais la présence de 2x4 torpilles de chaque côté permet de oneshot n'importe quel navire qui ose s'approcher. Coupler à son exellente armure, les cuirassés un peu trop isolés dans des îles risquent d'être surpris. L'hindenburg pêche en revanche pour sa vitesse, la plus faible en croiseur TX avec seulement 31.5 nœuds sans drapeau de vitesse. La maniabilité de l'hindenburg est moyenne mais suffisante pour ce qui lui est demandé. Sa dissimulation est l'une des pires (12,3km), seulement dépassée par celle du Moskva et du Henri IV. Son anti AA reste correct, le module de portée AA ainsi qu'entrainement avancé au tir (AFT) lui permettent de se défendre seul. De même pour sa maniabilité... Style de jeu L'hindenburg est un croiseur extrêmement polyvalent, un "jack of all trades". Pour en tirer dans sa puissance, un bon hindenburg accompagnera ses DD à une distance assez confortable, à minimum 6km de distance, de sorte que les DD et l'hindenburg soient spotté au même moment Comme tous les croiseurs et en l'absence de spot de DD, le début de partie est consacré à des engagements à plutôt longue distance, sur les cibles les plus isolés entre 14km et 18km. Il est extrêmement important de garder des solutions de repli, un hindenburg ne doit jamais se retrouver bow tanking (le nez face à l'ennemi), sans solution de repli. Le kiting est donc à privilégier à tout moment de la partie (on abordera ce point après). L'hindenburg est certes très tanky, mais sa citadel reste exposé à longue distance. Il faut toujours rester très vigilant et surveiller dans les airs les potentiels salves AP de cuirassés. En milieu et fin de partie, au fur à et mesure que le nombre de navires se réduit, l'hindeburg devient un monstre du duel et peut se jouer à une distance plus proche, entre 11 et 15km. Son DPM et son armure en font un adversaire redoutable et peu de croiseurs arriveront à vous défaire. Attention aux minotaurs et aux des moines en dessous de 10-11km de portée qui peuvent faire des ravages. Globalement l'hindenburg est un navire qui récompensera les capitaines vigilants, bon manœuvriers, qui savent se repositionner et s'adapter aux mouvements de l'adversaire. L'équipe adverse attaque ? Je recule tranquillement et je kite à une distance confortable. Elle recule et s'éloigne? Je me repositionne là où on a besoin de moi tout en gardant un oeil sur la flotte qui se replie. Attention à ne pas s'éloigner des objectifs et poursuivre des cibles sans intérêt stratégique ! Quelle munition utiliser ? La plupart du temps, l'hindenburg utilisera ses obus HE, qui sont extrêment puissant et régulier. Les obus AP ne seront utilisés que dans deux cas : - Sur un cuirrassé presque entièrement broadside - Sur un croiseur presque entièrement broadside Pourquoi presque entièrement broaside ? Les obus AP de l'hindenburg contrairement à ceux du des moines ont une pénétration faible. Un navire légèrement anglé pourra bounce vos obus. Attention de ne pas tomber dans le piège de tirer des obus AP sur des navires légèrement anglés, les obus HE seront bien meilleurs et plus réguliers ! A haut niveau, les switch à l'ap ne se feront que quand un navire adverse comment un demi tour et s'exposera pendant quelques secondes. L'usage du skill de capitaine expert loader est vivement conseillé. Un bon hindenburg est un bon spammeur HE, qui sait quand faire le switch dévastateur à l'AP L'engagement classique dans un Hindenburg s'effectuera à la fin d'un demi tour ou dans une position anglé à au moins 30°, toujours en fuite. Lors des salves de l'ennemi, il suffira de tourner pour éviter les salves. N'hésitez pas à alterner les vitesses (1/4 puis full speed) voir même à très longue distance s'arrêter et passer en marche arrière tout en étant anglé pendant quelques secondes, puis remettre les moteurs de nouveau. Ces changements de vitesse et de courses rendent la visée plus difficile pour les joueurs adverses. Bien sûr pendant toute cette période, il faut presque toujours tirer avec tous les canons. L'intérêt du kiting et de la variation de vitesse est d’infliger le plus dégâts aux navires adverses tout en limitant ceux reçus. De bonne manœuvres, de la vigiliance sur les obus qui arrivent, la capacité à s'angler et à tirer en même temps feront de vous de redoutables Hindenburg. Exemple de kiting avec ce gif https://imgur.com/a/FgbjkPU Usage en compétitif En compétitif, l'objectif de l'hindenburg est d'infliger le plus de dégats possible aux croiseurs et cuirassés ennemis. En défense, il est important de rester relativement éloigné de la flotte adverse au delà de 15km pour ne pas se faire surprendre. En attaque, il faut utiliser le plus possible son tanking pour progresser, tout en collaborant avec les autres navires qui vont push avec des angles de tirs différents. Si une attaque ne vise que la capture d'une cap, toujours prévoir une solution de repli. En présence d'un CV, un build anti air et le tir défensif seront très efficace pour éloigner les escadrons et protéger les cuirassés. Preuve de mon expérience en hinbenburg Une des mes parties
  2. storm57nr1

    [Guide] Le Myoko

    Salut à tous, aujourd’hui je viens faire un petit guide sur mon navire préféré (et de loin), j’ai nommé le Myoko ! Ce guide expliquera surtout comment aborder la bataille, comment bien commencer et comment faire gagner son équipe ! Quelle beauté quand même Alors le Myoko, c’est le sucesseur de l’Aoba et de ce cher petit Furutaka. Le Furutaka a été équipé à la 0.5.6 de trois tourelles doubles qui lui donnent une bien meilleure puissance de feu donc il s’incruste très bien dans la branche des croiseurs IJN. Ensuite on accède l’Aoba qui est finalement une belle représentation de ce que seront les croiseurs japonais par la suite : des cogneurs qui tapent très fort sur tout ce qui bouge. On notera que l’Aoba a un placement de torpilles assez désavantageux, en plus du fait de n’avoir que trois tourelles et une résistance extrêmement faible ! Le Myoko continue dans cette lignée, mais en mieux. Donc il ne faut pas s'attendre à une énorme surprise lors de sa première bataille. Tout d’abord ce qui choque sur le Myoko par rapport à l’Aoba c’est qu’on gagne deux tourelles, une à l’avant et une à l’arrière, donc 4 canons au total. Ce qui porte le nombre de canons à 10 au total. Sur les trois tourelles à l’avant seules deux peuvent réellement tirer vers l’avant, la troisième est tournée dans l’autre sens ce qui en fait une tourelle qu’on utilisera peu quand on charge, mais beaucoup lors des mouvements de fuite (historiquement, cette tourelle a été placée de cette manière justement pour pouvoir fuir tout en gardant une puissance de feu conséquente). Quand on lance sa première bataille on se rend pleinement compte des forces et des faiblesses de la bête : Tout d’abord le Myoko tourne moins bien que l’Aoba, est bien plus grand, et ses tourelles ont l’air d’être manipulées par des grand-mères asthmatiques qui n'ont pas pris leurs cachets. On notera aussi que les torpilles ont toujours cet angle un peu bizarre, MAIS il y a deux sets de torpilles en plus. Chaque set de torpille ne compte que trois lanceurs, mais on peut balancer 6 torpilles de chaque côté au lieu de 4 sur l’Aoba (ici j’aborderai toujours le navire dans sa configuration full, un guide ne sert à rien pour un navire stock). Fort de ce constat on se lance en bataille, et on note que ses tourelles ne tournent vraiment PAS. C’est horrible ! Et c’est à partir de là que je vais commencer à vous expliquer comment moi je me sers de la bête ! I. Les premières minutes de la bataille Alors comme tout bon croiseur, vous allez regarder de quel côté vont ces chers alliés et vous allez vous diriger du même côté, c’est logique personne n’a envie de se retrouver seul. Seulement voilà, vous avez un navire qui va aussi vite qu’un destroyer (35 nœuds quand même, ce n’est pas rien), à ce moment-là il convient de se servir de cette vitesse. Vous allez donc vous diriger vers un des flancs avec vos alliés, et vous verrez vos alliés se disperser pour couvrir du terrain, vous vous irez vous placer derrière un cuirassé (un cuirassé solide de préférence) histoire de voir ce qu’il y a en face et d’éviter de se prendre des tirs stupides. Une fois que vous avez pu voir la configuration ennemie sur le flanc, vous allez devoir décider quel sera votre rôle. S’il y a beaucoup des cuirassés et quelques croiseurs, vous devrez rester derrière un de vos cuirassés. S’il n’y a que des croiseurs et que vous avez une escorte de cuirassés vous pouvez mettre les gaz et pousser en force avec vos alliés. Si vous ne voyez personne et que vous êtes détecté, regardez quels destroyers sont présents en partie, s’il y a des destroyers japonais, commencez des manœuvres d’évitement de torpille (si vous avez affaire à des destroyers US au dessus du tier 7, commencez aussi des manoeuvres d'évitement, ça peut vous sauver la vie). II. Le milieu de la bataille Vous êtes sur un flanc, vous avez des navires avec vous, que faire ? De base le Myoko est repéré aux alentours de 13kms, donc assurez-vous d’être au-delà de cette distance, vous aurez ainsi le premier tir, le plus décisif. Vous allez devoir choisir votre cible, je vous conseille fortement de commencer par viser un croiseur, ce sont ceux qui vous feront le plus mal. Donc montrez votre flanc, alignez tous vos canons et chargez la bonne munition (si ennemi de flanc => AP, sinon => HE), visez bien l’ennemi et FEUUUUU. Vous verrez à l’instant même où vous allez tirer, le croiseur ennemi va vouloir vous tirer dessus en retour (s’il n’est pas encore occupé), vous allez donc vous rabattre et vous mettre en direction de l’adversaire, la plupart de ses tirs ne vous toucheront pas, à moins que votre manœuvre soit vraiment prévisible. Juste après que l’ennemi ait tiré remettez-vous de flanc, et tirez à nouveau puis remettez-vous de face. Répétez la manœuvre encore et encore si l’ennemi utilise la munition AP, s’il utilise de la HE, vous pourrez alors exposer un peu plus votre flanc, en vous mettant de biais afin de tirer avec vos canons arrière. Pendant ce temps, et pendant votre rechargement jetez un œil aux alentours pour voir où en sont vos alliés, s’ils chargent aussi, tant mieux, sinon il va falloir faire demi-tour. Si vous devez faire demi-tour attendez que l’ennemi ait tiré, et virez au maximum. La manœuvre sera donc la même durant toute la game, après il faut se mettre en tête que si vous vous faites tirer dessus par plusieurs ennemis, la meilleure solution est de fuir en vous servant de votre vitesse, et quand vous dépassez les 13kms de distance avec les ennemis cessez de tirer (gardez les canons dans leur direction au cas où) La manœuvre est sensiblement la même pour les cuirassés, mais vous avez le temps de tirer deux fois le temps qu’ils vous tirent dessus. Il est nécessaire de comprendre que combattre un cuirassé en en 1vs1 est difficile, et votre victoire consistera à mettre l’ennemi en feu via des tirs très précis sur les différentes zones du cuirassé. Vous en ressortirez certainement avec peu de PV, mais vous aurez gagné. Pour un destroyer, il est important d’avoir des alliés avec soi à ce moment-là, surtout des croiseurs, pour ratisser le terrain et trouver le fameux DD. Il est vital d’engager des manœuvres d’esquive toutes les 15/20 secondes en changeant vraiment de direction de manière aléatoire et suffisante pour éviter une salve de torpille. Si vous voyez des torpilles foncer vers vous, dirigez-vous vers les torpilles et changez de direction ensuite. Vous avez terrassé votre ennemi, il est en fuite, vous avez donc deux choix : 1. Les poursuivre 2. aller aider vos alliés sur l'autre flanc La solution 2. est la meilleure et de loin, si le second flanc n'a pas été ratiboisé, aller les aider est une bonne idée. Donc même chose que sur le premier flanc, juste que cette fois-ci il faut viser l'élimination des ennemis. Vous pouvez aussi aller capturer la base, ça surprendra l'ennemi et vous assurerez à votre équipe une victoire, surtout si l'ennemi est supérieur en nombre mais n'a que des navires assez lents. Vous pouvez encore aller faire la chasse aux CV, pour éradiquer leur menace. Là le barrage servira beaucoup ! Le barrage est a utiliser quand vous voyez arriver plusieurs escadrons ennemis sur vous et que vous voyez que c'est après vous qu'ils en ont. Visez les bombardiers torpilleurs et activez le barrage, carnage garanti surtout si vous êtes spe AA. Dans tous les cas, il faut que vous fassiez une action qui aide votre équipe, donc soit en occupant les ennemis, soit en réduisant leur force de frappe, soit en capturant la base ennemie. III. la fin de bataille Admettons vous vous soyez tombé sur une bataille avec des alliés tenant plus du manche à balais qu’autre chose, vous vous retrouvez seul contre 2/3 ennemis. Votre victoire consistera en un bon repérage des forces ennemies pour savoir qui est le plus fort et qui frapper en premier. Sachez qu’un cuirassé est facile à détruire s’il est seul, sinon quasiment invulnérable. Un croiseur peut facilement se faire avoir via une salve d’AP bien placés. Une fois le repérage fait, il faut connaitre les objectifs des ennemis, capture de la base ou destruction de votre beau navire. S’ils cherchent à capturer et que votre équipe est en train de gagner au point, cachez-vous derrière une île, tirez vos torpilles en évitant de vous faire repérer et admirez le spectacle. Si les torpilles ne touchent pas, faites feu sur l’ennemi désorganisé. Difficile de donner plus de détails tellement les situations sont différentes, mais celui qui connaîtra le mieux son navire l’emportera ! Si vous êtes tombé sur une bonne équipe mais que vos alliés sont un peu à court de PV (et que vous êtes encore plutôt fringuant), vous allez devoir exploiter toute la puissance de votre navire. Tout d'abord, annoncez dans le chat que vous comptez prendre le lead, demandez aux alliés de vous suivre (s'ils sont pas neuneux ils s’exécuteront). Là concrètement, tout va se jouer grâce à la compétence vitale sur tous les navires : conscience de la situation. Vous allez savoir grâce à la minimap ou étaient les ennemis la dernière fois qu'ils ont été vus, donc s'ils sont encore plus ou moins sur place, en vous approchant soit vous les verrez distinctement soit vous verrez que vous êtes repéré. Une fois repéré il faudra vous diriger directement vers cet ennemi (en faisant des zigzag s'il y a des destroyers ennemis encore sur flots), une fois que l'ennemi (ou vous) a engagé le combat, attendez que l'ennemi recharge, mettez vous de flanc et allumez le à la HE (s'il est pas de flanc), si l'ennemi est de flanc, switchez à l'AP et visez au centre du navire sous les cheminées (merci à Adrien de la Pantsu pour l'astuce ). Si vous devez (ou si vous préférez) rester à la munition HE, tout va se jouer à bien peu de PV car en un contre un contre un navire équivalent (ou même un cuirassé) il va falloir être très prudent. Là il va falloir bien tirer parti de votre avantage : les chances d'incendie. Vous allez pouvoir viser les différentes zones du navire ennemi pour lui causer le plus d'incendie possible en simultané. Une fois que l'ennemi brûle bien, vous pouvez continuer à tirer pour faire les dégâts habituels et casser les modules. Si votre ennemi à quatre incendies pendant une minute, peu importe s'il vous coule ou pas, il gagnera à la Pyrrhus (vous vous rappelez du gars qui a vaincu les romains mais d'une manière tellement juste qu'il s'est presque retrouvé tout seul) et vous vous aurez combattu noblement. Si vous laissez votre ennemi avec très peu de PV vos alliés devraient l'achever facilement et ainsi vous offrir la victoire en récompense pour votre sacrifice (ou le cas échéant, votre implication). Niveau compétences maintenant : Voila comment j'ai équipé mon Myoko, le commandant est actuellement en cours de réentrainement sur le Mogami donc les compétences sont pas validées. Ps : j'ai pris surintendant parce qu'il n'y avait vraiment rien d'autre d'intéressant à ce niveau Si le guide vous a plu ou déplu dites-le dans les commentaires Je suis conscient de ne pas être un bon joueur, mais j’aime partager mon expérience
  3. Introduction Hello! This is my fourth guide in my "how to" series. Links to my other guides: -> How to play Großer Kurfürst -> General guide on how to play Battleships -> How to play Montana Today I'll write about the oldest tier 10 Battleship in World of Warships: Yamato. A Battleship which has definitely been hit by "power creep" so to say, but it still holds its place as a extremely valuable tool for area denial. I'm making this guide with help from people of |OP| and people like @strangers123 (although Strangers absolutely dislikes the ship) Captain's Skillbuild As I said earlier Yamato is a ship that has greatly changed over the lifetime of this game. While the older builds often recommend a secondary based build, this is definitely not a thing you'd want to do now. There are 2 builds that I would see as usable, an AA build (questionable/very situational) and a tanky build. Personally I'd recommend using the tanky build since the AA build totally doesn't play in the Yamato's strength. Preventive Maintenance is there to avoid your turrets getting destroyed. While Yamato turrets are really tanky it does help, since your turrets turn so slowly it's likely that they will get hit in the side while turning. Direction center for catapult aircraft could be picked for extra torpedo spotting but I personally prefer having my main battery guns not break on me in combat, but it's up to personal preference. In the contrary Expert Marksman is a MUST HAVE on the Yamato, if you are going for the reload upgrade on your ship your gun turret traverse will slow down to a whopping 82 seconds (for a 180° turn) if you wouldn't use the Expert Marksman skill. While using it will bring that back down to 62 seconds (note that Isoroku Yamamoto is being tested with enhanced expert marksman making this even more valuable) Adrenaline Rush will help to increase your DPM (Damage per minute) once your hp goes lower (thrust me, it will). This will make you incredibly dangerous since your reload will drop down to +-23 seconds when you are at 50% HP. Basics of Survivability, a mainstay in tank builds, is a skill that will decrease fire and flooding duration, which is incredibly useful given that Yamato will be the focus of many cruisers. Superintendent will give you an extra heal which obviously helps in prolonged games, giving you an extra batch of repairable HP. Fire Prevention does the same as Basics of Survivability in helping you survive HE focused fire, it limits the max number of fires you can have on your ship, making the 2 most easy to hit fire zones into one big zone (the front and back of the midships) Concealment Expert is a skill I use on all my Battleships because it is just so valuable, it allows you to disengage and heal back up (in most cases). It can greatly stretch your lifetime in a battle where you are being pushed. Ship Upgrades Slot 1 Slot 2 Slot 3 Slot 4 Or for Manoeuvrability (Which I prefer) Slot 5 Slot 6 Slot 4 is really the only one of these upgrades that could be disputed. While Damage Control System 2 is very useful for tanking, I do prefer Steering gears mod 2 to help your ship turn. Yamato really needs to be able to turn to avoid exposing it's weak frontal citadel which I'll talk more in detail about in the next point. General Playstyle Yamato is as I said one of the older Battleships in the game and it does show. Compared to all her tier 10 counterparts she still has a very easy to hit citadel because it sits quite high in the water. The octagonal shape of her citadel also makes it so that Yamato can get quite easily citadelled even when angled. In the picture below I indicated what I am talking about with a blue line. When Yamato is angling like this, that panel sits at a flat angle compared to you, making it easy to penetrate given that you are in a Battleship are ship with a high enough calibre to do so. This is why I prefer the stearing gears modification over the damage control, it allows you to more easily hide this weakness. Because when you are sitting completely bow on to an enemy Battleship, the only other Battleship that is able to penetrate your hull is another Yamato. For it's play style Yamato greatly depends on her massive guns, but these also limit her in some points. Yamato is great at denying complete areas of the map by sitting bow on and stopping enemy battleships from pushing into her, this will make her a priority target of most cruisers, hence why I recommend using the tank build. It is better to wait out the first few minutes of the battle to see where you are most needed, the thing you do need to keep in mind is that you need support. Yamato is a Battleship that works incredibly poorly when unsupported and has great difficulties getting out of harms way unlike Montana or Kurfürst who can more easily turn around. Unlike these ships Yamato doesn't have a lot of firepower in the back of the ship and is also relatively slow. You should see Yamato more as a fortress, once it sits somewhere where it has secured its flanks, it is incredibly hard to dislodge her from her position. Her 460mm guns can overmatch the bows of all enemy battleships that could come to assault her, making pushes against her not an easy task at all. Carriers and destroyers will be a pain to deal with as they can launch attacks from angles that Yamato has a hard time defending, although her very impressive torpedo bulge will definitely take a lot of the sting out of torpedoes. Try to keep the enemy in front of you while withering them down and push when your team is ready. Whatever you do, don't brawl, your slow turret traverse will make it very hard to track enemies, even battleships at close range, on top of that your number 2 turret cant aim down over your first turret at short range, diminishing your damage even more. And when enemy battleships get around you and get you angled they will start reliably citadelling you in the spot that I mentioned before. What you should do when the enemy starts pushing in is trying to back off by putting your ship in reverse, this will give you more time to deal as much damage as possible. When you know you are going down, taking someone with you with a ram could also be an option you are willing to take. Try not to use your back turret when you are closer than 15 km unless the enemy really isn't paying attention. When you are able to use your back turret, this also means that you expose that weak spot in your citadel. (you basically need to outweigh your risks and rewards) On top of this try to stick to targets that are in front of your guns, thanks to the very slow turret rotation you will lose a lot of time if you switch targets very often. In short: Don't give broadside, get a good position with your flanks relatively secure (preferably close to your own destroyers for support), unload accurate 460mm shells until your ship runs out of hp or you need to start pushing, try to limit turning your guns, do not brawl and don't forget that your citadel has a weird shape. Outro As all my other guides I will try to keep updating these, if you have any points you would like to see added, please do leave them in the comments. Feedback is always appreciated and I will try to implement it as soon as possible. Have a nice day! Kathy.
  4. Introduction Hello! It's been a while since I last wrote my general guide on how to play battleships -> Link (Other guides -> How to play Yamato and How to play Montana) So now I would like to start sharing my experiences and tips on how to play some specific battleships. Today I want to make a guide about the Großer Kurfürst which I will just name GK from now on because it's less annoying to write. I'm making this guide with some tips gathered from [OP] and other players like @Runner357. Gun Choice GK has the option to switch between 2 sets of guns. While the 406mm guns give you a faster rate of fire they do often lack the penetration to hurt enemy battleships as much as the 420mm guns do. That being said, the 420's also do more damage/shell. This however is a personal preference and I do know people who play with the 406's and like them more. Captain's Skillbuild Just like any ship the GK is just a piece of easy target practice without a good captain and with that a good captain skillbuild. While there are a few ways to build the skills GK there is one build I definitely prefer over other builds. This build focusses heavily on survivability compared to f.e. a secondary build (a build that takes Manual Secondaries, Basic Fire Training and Advanced Fire Training) While the secondary build can be usefull in some occasions it generally lacks in flexibility. I take Preventive Maintenance to decrease the possibility of my main battery guns getting knocked out in a fight. Expert Marksman gives the usefull bonus of being able to turn your guns faster + it offsets the penalty your guns get to turret rotation by taking the reload module. This is a skill I tend to take on all my BB's Adrenaline Rush is a skill that gets more usefull the more your ship gets damaged, making it so that taking a torpedo or two isn't the worst thing in the world anymore (still try to avoid it tho) Basics of Survivability and Fire Prevention serve the same goal of limiting fire damage your ship will take. GK is extremely big, even bigger than Yamato, and will be a very tasty target for cruiser HE spam. Fires do a percentage based damage on your ship every second. If my calculus is allright this should be 0.3% of your HP/fire/second. This is 317 damage every single second on the GK for only one fire. Limiting this damage is extremely important in the GK if you want to keep tanking for your team. Super Intendent fits very nicely in this image as it will give you an extra charge for your repair party (and Hydroacoustic search!) which will greatly help your survivability. Concealment Expert is a bit of a controversial pick because the GK's detection will remain quite big, however I've found it usefull because it allows you to get a little bit closer before opening up, and it does open up some ways to dissengage if things go south. Ship Upgrades Stearing Gears Mod 2 could be switched out for Damage Control System 2 which grants an even bigger reduction on fire and flooding duration, however, personally I like to keep my ships somewhat manoeuvrable so I tend to stick to the decrease in rudder shift. This makes turning to avoid torpedoes a lot less painfull. Some could argue that taking the Gun Fire Control System Modification 2 would be better than the Main Battery Modification 3 because the range on the GK is indeed quite lacking. However I end up engaging targets at a shorter range so having that extra reload suits the GK better. You do not want to be sniping in this ship. General Playstyle GK is a ship that benefits from a slightly more agressive playstyle than f.e. its tier X counterparts Yamato and Montana. The biggest difference is that GK has acces to the German Hydroacoustic Search consumable which has a range of 5.88 km for ships and 4.02 km for torpedoes. This allows you to be more agressive in pushes because your hydro provides you with a lot of warning for incoming enemy torpedoes. While your size will hinder you in avoiding all, it will severely limit the total amount of torpedoes you might take. This is even more important when fighting against Destroyers equipped with deepwater torpedoes, torpedoes that are extremely stealthy. The bow on the GK encourages an agressive playstyle even more since it's the only tier X BB that has 60mm of bow plating (marked in red by amazing paint skills) keep in mind that the parts marked in blue are still only 32 mm of armour tho. Your 60mm makes you relatively resilient when bow on to enemy battleships and cruiser AP, however the superstructure of GK is one of your weak points. A good player will shoot for your superstructure and do lots of damage by penetrating that instead. Furthermore your good citadel armour and turtleback shape* of your main armourbelt allow you to get away with some manoeuvres other battleships could only dream off. This however doesn't mean you can't be punished. GK gets citadelled very rarely but it definitely does happen in certain occasions. And even if you don't get citadelled when giving your side to the enemy, your ship will take massive penetrating damage, 30K damage salvoes on a GK are not unheard off. Your bad turret angles will lure you into temptation to show a lot of your side and that's why, when you are being focussed, it is better to keep your bow turned to the enemy and resist the temptation to kill yourself by showing broadside. The GK isn't renowned for its accuracy but that doesn't mean it's super bad, when you are not being focussed and you can use all your guns they might suprise you with their accuracy. GK has a lot of HP for a tier X ship and when used correctly you can make that 105 800 hitpoint pool last a lot longer too. Don't forget to angle, use your heals, limit fires by pressing the damage control consumable at the right time (never press it for 1 fire) and, to add to that point, make sure you pick the premium consumables (22 500 credits), not taking these, especially damage control party 2 and repair party 2, will give you a very big disadvantage on the battlefield. Try to focus the enemy Battleships at the start of the game, your lack of stealth makes it hard to ambush cruisers. When the moment in the battle is there to be aggressive don't be afraid to push. A pushing GK with hydro running is a big pain to deal with for the enemy team. Just try to not overextend that much. *turtleback armour is a shape of armour that will have the effect of giving you less citadels when you give broadside. Outro That's basically it for this guide, if you have any other points I could add please do mention them in the comments, I will try to implement them if possible :) Have a nice day! Kathy.
  5. Isambard_Kingdom_Brunel

    Ishizuchi - Is she worth it?

    Disliked ship guide #1: Ishizuchi- Should I buy her or get some premium Camo instead? At a Glance: IJN Tier 4 1915 British concept Battlecruiser, capable of good top speed and surprising maneuverability Most similar to Kongo in play-style, largest differences being 1 extra turret, faster reload and much less range Strongly utilises the Battlecruiser concept, moreso than Kongo. This means sticking with cruisers or using islands for cover is more viable/less cowardly than in Kongo or the Moggy. Great credit farm, a good match will net you well over 200k profit. Available in-store or in-game for doubloons, for £9, 'cos convenience is the age we live in! First - An Opinion I was very put off from buying this paper ship for a long time, in part due to bad reviews related mostly to her pre-buff stats. But being a stock Kongo lover (yes, really! I love how A Hull looked pre 5.11...so British!) I took the plunge and bought Ishizuchi. To date, I've had some of my best BB battles in her, including a kraken, two confederates and regular damage exceeding 100k. Did I mention I only bought her yesterday? So I do well with her, we get it. But to be honest I felt I should post my feelings here not to show how 'good' she is, but to show why I don't feel her shortcomings really hamper gameplay if played right. Still being a noob myself with her I know i'm not qualified enough to say 'Buy!', but jesus. I havn't had as much fun in a Battleship since I discovered Kongo. Seriously, I love this ship. And here's why for both newcomers and veterans of the game: The good: She has just enough armour to bounce a lot of shot when angled, enough speed to chase other BBs (or indeed, to escape their wrath) and enough alpha firepower to seriously put down hurt on anyone at similar tier. HE seems pretty atomic too; I lit a South Carolina up a good 7 or 8 times in a row, making HE very feasible on her. Guns have the fastest reload and best HE for a battleship at this tier - even faster than Kaiser. Is one of only five (including Arizona) Battleships in the entire game which can fire 6 shots directly astern. Favourable matchmaking; you'll see nothing above tier 5's in this. The price of 2.5k doubloons is very good imo. It was this or prem camo for North Carolina or Iowa (hence the title)...and I am seriously happy with this choice, despite my love for NC. Amazing secondaries for the tier and can lay down more volume of secondary fire than most other ships she'll come across. I always hated that I had to upgrade Wyoming or Kongo and lose those ace secondary guns. Now I have a ship which doesn't require that I do that. They can go up to 4.2km and there are 22 of the buggers; that's more than Montana, a tier 10! They're also high calibre, with most being 6inch. She counters Kaiser, Nassau and Konig's armour well, mostly due to the high damage HE (over 30% at 5600dmg) she can spit into their superstructure. This was a very big selling point for me. She could be described as a lower tier Scharnhorst; great Cruiser Killer with her speed and fast reloading AP. Great Turning circle for such a long ship; not Kriegsmarine dreadnought level, but better than the vast majority of Japanese vessels. Can defeat Myogi in a 1v1 with ease. You are also the only other Battleship below tier 5 which can give chase to Myogi. Is BEAUTIFUL. Harks back to the days of Britain's Battlecruisers. You won't find a better looking BC in the game until Hood joins us. The camo which comes with her is also lovely. Being built in Britain means 'this one can really turn!' Warspite fans will feel right at home with her maneuverability. The ugly: She has awful concealment, even worse range (13km) and unthinkably bad AA. But what do you expect? This is Tier 4...She actually has very good range and concealment now! Armour can be soft from plunging fire, and of course she shares the Japanese characteristic of short repair party immunity; making intelligent consumable use all the more vital. Suffers from the same armour issues as Kongo, ie easy to citadel if you are stupid enough to give your broadside to anyone with 12inch guns or above. Can only mount two upgrades. I know this is normal at T4, but this certainly doesn't help if you want to supercharge her beyond default config. CVs WILL target you if they can. Her lack of AA is known by any experienced carrier player. Her Battlecruiser armour won't last long against prolonged BB contact. However, when angled it can become quite potent. Captain Skills (based on 13 points captain; I'm using a brand new captain on mine but would guess these would work well) - Basic Fire Training (for Secondary buff) - Turret Traverse (for brawling) - Torp vigilance (for dancing with DDs) - Advanced Fire Training (for Secondary buff) - Superintendent (for extra heal; when you lose HP in this ship, it happens hard and fast) - I'd also consider Pyromanic (now called Demolition Expert) if you don't plan on using AFT, as this ship spits fire with the tenacity of a dragon. Upgrades - Slot 1: Main Battery 1 (obviously, as you have 5 turrets to get knocked out!) - Slot 2: Damage Control Systems 1 (it's a large target...and a Japanese one at that. Expect fire.) Verdict If you use her like a Cruiser, you'll do well. Use her like a BB and you *might* do well. I've had a few brawls/long range duels (including a 1km scrap with two Kaisers...in which my slightly superior secondaries and alpha damage killed one and severely damaged the other!); I am surprised by how well she carries herself when toe to toe with the big boys in general. She can hold her own against other Tier 4 BBs quite easily if angled and used right; definitely better than Myogi can, at any rate. So for those on the fence, I say; spend £8 or whatever she is (I bought her in-game) if you enjoy Kongo. If however, the Battlecruiser concept gets you killed within 5 minutes of battle, steer well clear. She needs to be treated like the hybrid she is! She has the highest HE alpha damage of any ship at this tier, and can be a real pain for cruisers if loading AP due to her fast reload.
  6. Hi All, Paul "tx141" Walsh here welcoming you to my little video thread! Being predominantly a USN/Russian Destroyer player above all else, and seeing how there is quite the preference for Japanese Destroyers; I thought I would start putting together videos highlighting gameplays focused around my favourite Destroyers, and the tactics I use to help teams push to victory. Of course, I do play other ships every so often! So I shall also put out the odd Cruiser/Battleship/Carrier video here and there! As for the frequency of my videos, I aim to upload a new video every Wednesday (personal circumstances permitting!). Below is a running catalogue of my videos to date: Ship Featured Ship Tier Video Title Link to Video Game Version Video Description Nicholas (USA) V The Leading Destroyer Link 0.5.5.2 Some casual teamwork, supporting the main fleet in a Tier VII match. Ognevoi (USSR) VI Run and Gun Link 0.5.6.1 Time to keep our opponents guessing as to where we will show up next. Kirov (USSR) V Remember the Objective! Link 0.5.6.1 Today, we are going to learn a fundamental lesson in World of Warships. Umikaze (Japan) II Behind Enemy Lines Link 0.5.6.1 Today, we are going to wreak havoc by sneaking behind enemy lines in the first of the Japanese destroyers. Farragut (USA) VI The Importance of Staying Alive Link 0.5.7.0 The longer the game goes on, the more valuable your Destroyer can become. Mahan (USA) VII The Hatsu-han Force Link 0.5.7.0 Sailing alone is one thing. Sailing with friends is something special. Atlanta (USA) VII Paving the Way Link 0.5.8.0 A gentle Tier VII match in my Atlanta, hopefully depicting one way of using this Cruiser-Destroyer hybrid. Ognevoi (USSR) VI Off The Beaten Track Link 0.5.8.1 Time to do the unexpected in a Ranked match: playing in the backline with a Destroyer. Kiev (USSR) VII Till Death Do Us Part Link 0.5.8.1 So how can we recover from a terrible opening play exactly? Campbeltown (United Kingdom) III Punching a Hole Link 0.5.8.1 Ignore the negativity surrounding this ship, it can be quite exciting to play! Yubari (Japan) IV Thank You Mr. Jingles Link 0.5.9.1 Time to give our first impressions on our prize from The Mighty Jingles’s 500k Subscriber competition! Orlan (USSR) I The Mighty Orlan (feat. Zouron) Link 0.5.8.1 Today, Zouron is going to demonstrate the importance of positioning as a key principle of teamwork. Mahan (USA) VII Keeping a Low Profile Link 0.5.9.1 Sometimes, taking a slower approach can work to one's advantage in a Destroyer. Benson (USA) VIII Counter-offensive Link 0.5.9.1 Stay cool, calm and collected; regardless of what others stay… Hermelin (Germany) I Wiggle Our Way Out Link 0.5.9.1 Being unpredictable in your movements, whilst in a high intensity situation, can go a long way… Prinz Eugen (Germany) VIII First Impressions Link 0.5.11 My initial thoughts on the newly introduced German premium cruiser. Gnevny (USSR) V Use All of Your Assets Link 0.5.11 I absolutely love the Gnevny, and here is an insight as to why… Yorck (Germany) VII Run the Gauntlet (feat. Ilmari) Link 0.5.11 Today, Ilmari is going to show us how to use the Yorck. Kuma ( Japan) IV Broken Glass Link 0.5.12.1 Today, we take a look at the Tier IV Japanese Light Cruiser class known as the Kuma. Kiev (USSR) VII Not Meant To Be Link 0.5.13 Time to try and get things right in the Kiev! Gearing (USA) X A Clean Bill of Health Link 0.5.13.1 It's about time I came back, and what better way to start than with the ship I always wanted? Cleveland (USA) VI Faith in the Unconventional Link 0.5.14.1 Today, we're going to use some rather odd tactics in our American Light Cruiser. New Mexico (USA) VI Corner Ship Quartet Link 0.5.15.1 Just because you are a Battleship does not mean you have to take the majority of the enemy team's attention... Leander (UK) VI It’s only Stock Link 0.5.14.1 Time for a Christmas special! G-101 (Germany) III Farewell to 2016 Link 0.5.16.0 Time to wrap up what has been an awesome year for this channel. Warspite (UK) VI New Year’s Resolution 2017 Link 0.5.16.0 Let's kick-start 2017 with some action in the Warspite. Colorado (USA) VII Baptism by Fire Link 0.5.16.1 The path to becoming a better Battleship player begins here with a stock Colorado. Kiev (USSR) VII Nothing Left To Give Link 0.5.16.1 Today, we take a look at my best game to date in World of Warships. Colorado (USA) VII Ride it Out Link 0.5.16.1 Today we see how perseverance is a key trait for a Battleship captain. Fubuki (Japan) VI Striking A Balance Link 0.6.0.1 A number of you asked for Japanese Destroyer gameplay; and here you go! Roon (Germany) IX Delaying Action Link 0.5.16.1 This time, MiaYosh is going to show us how to delay the enemy's advance in his Roon. Akatsuki (Japan) VII Back to Normal Link 0.6.2.1 Time to step back into Random Battles and give my first impressions of the Akatsuki. Pensacola (USA) VII Being the Bait Link 0.6.1.1 Time for us to analyse the first of a series of Ranked matches from Season 6. On today's agenda: using our ship's "squishy" reputation to buy our team time to mount a counter-attack. T-22 (Germany) V Does Exactly What It Says On The Tin Link 0.6.2.2 She may not be a phenomenal ship, but the T-22 earns her place within the fleet as a key team player. Pensacola (USA) VII Making and Breaking Relationships Link 0.6.1.1 Part 2 of our Ranked Analysis is all about staying positive and exploiting the relationships between the members of each team. Pensacola (USA) VII Tipping the Odds Link 0.6.1.1 The third and final part of our Ranked Analysis is all about being in the right position to make the game-changing play(s) for your team. New Orleans (USA) VIII Over My Dead Body Link 0.6.5.1 Now that life has settled down again, back to the videos! Budyonny (USSR) VI Always Within Reach Link 0.6.5.1 Whilst I was not a big fan of the Budyonny at first, she has gradually grown on me and this video shows why. Konigsberg (Germany) V Don’t Rule Out The AP Link 0.6.6.0 Today, I give my thoughts on the recent German Cruiser HE penetration buff in relation to the Konigsberg (Tier V Cruiser). Atlanta (USA) VII Putting The Team First Link 0.6.6.1 Today, I show how the Atlanta's potent combination of Radar and ample AA can be of immeasurable benefit to her team's success. Sims (USA) VII A Worthy Investment Link 0.6.6.1 Today, I provide my first impressions on the Tier VII Premium American Destroyer known as the Sims. Kawachi (Japan) III Tanking One For The Team Link 0.6.7.0 Today we aim to soak up as much damage as possible for our team in the Kawachi. Yubari (Japan) IV Like A Kite In The Wind Link 0.6.7.0 Today we aim to frustrate our foes by continuously kiting their fire. Shchors (USSR) VII First Impressions Link 0.6.7.1 Today I provide my first impressions of a cruiser I have been grinding towards for some time. Gallant (UK) VI Keep Calm and Carry On Link 0.6.8.1 Today we feature some gameplay using the newly introduced British Premium Destroyer whilst also discussing how sometimes you need to change up your game-plan as a match evolves to stay successful. Colorado (USA) VII Managing One’s Health Link 0.6.12.1 Continuing our theme of becoming a better battleship player in 2017, today's topic is: HP Management. Magnu-S (Halloween 2017) VIII Operation Sunray in the Darkness Review Link 0.6.12.1 Today we review the Operation Wargaming graced us with for Halloween 2017. Svyatozar (Halloween 2017) VIII TFZ take on Sunray in the Darkness Link 0.6.12.1 The TFZ squad see if they can 5 Star the Halloween 2017 operation. Nürnberg (Germany) VI The Good Old C Hull Link 0.6.13.1 Ever wondered how powerful the C hull can be on the Nürnberg? This video may answer that question for you. Gearing (USA) X Last Man Standing Link 0.6.12.1 Time to bring out my favourite ship once again; this time demonstrating the power of map control in an Epicentre match. Scharnhorst (Germany) VII A Sense of Direction Link 0.6.13.1 Today we take a look at how we, as the top Tier Battleship in a given match, can help inspire out team to victory. Kirov (USSR) V A Long Range Problem Link 0.6.13.1 Let's start our investigation into what the implications are of the 10% buff to the Kirov's fire-rate. Kirov (USSR) V 180mm Dominance Link 0.6.13.1 Time for us to conclude our investigation into the affect(s) of the 10% buff to the Kirov's fire-rate. Leningrad (USSR) VII Highly Capable Link 0.6.14.0 Today we review the Tier VII Premium Soviet Destroyer known as the Leningrad. Vampire (Commonwealth) III On The Prowl Link 0.6.14.2 Today we outline our first impressions of the new Tier III Commonwealth Premium Destroyer: the Vampire. Bogue (USA) V New Year’s Resolution 2018 Link 0.6.14.2 Better late than never to start learning how to play Aircraft Carriers. Prinz Eugen (Germany) VIII Sweet Spot Link 0.6.15.1 Today we look into how we may use one of the more difficult to handle Premium Heavy Cruisers in the game. North Carolina (USA) VIII Tip The Balance Link 0.6.15.1 Today we demonstrate how despite being bottom-tier in a rather unfavourable match-up; we can still help make the difference between victory and defeat. Independence (USA) VI Going The Distance Link 0.7.0 It's not about how many planes you get; it's about how you make the most out of them. Ognevoi (USSR) VIII All Your Base Are Belong To Us Link 0.7.0 Today we focus solely on the objective and, as a result, spread our destroyer's value across the battlefield. Furutaka (Japan) V The Portable Punch Link 0.7.0.2 Today we review the first of Japanese Heavy Cruisers currently available in game. Nelson (UK) VII A Spot of Island Hopping Link 0.7.1.0 Time for us to tank as much damage as possible for our division using the Nelson's super-heal! Hosho (Japan) IV The Cross-Drop Comeback Link 0.7.1.1 Having fallen victim to enough cross-drops in the past, it is time for me to set up some of my own! Zuiho (Japan) V The Destroyer Becomes the Destroyed Link 0.7.1.1 Today we practice cross-dropping Torpedoes on enemy Destroyers. Murmansk (USSR) V Melting Point Link 0.7.0.2 Today, MiaYosh is going show us how deadly the Murmansk can be when it is a top tier ship in a given match. Ranger (USA) VII Putting the Fleet First Link 0.7.1.1 Today I outline my first impressions of the Tier VII American Carrier known as the Ranger. North Carolina (USA) VIII Weather the Storm Link 0.7.2.1 Sometimes as a Battleship you just have to soak up the damage until the right moment arrives for a counter-attack. New York (USA) V No Way Back Link 0.7.2.0 Today I talk about how failing to have an impact in the opening stages of a match can be to your team's detriment as the game goes on. Cleveland (USA) VI Operation Aegis 4 Ships, 5 Stars Link 0.7.2.0 Just because you can sail with up to 6 other players in an operation does not mean you have to! Fubuki (Japan) VI Point Man Link 0.7.3.0 Today I talk about how I prefer to use a stealthy torpedo-boat Destroyer such as the Fubuki in a Domination match. Nürnberg (Germany) VI Operation Killer Whale 4 Ships, 5 Stars Link 0.7.2.0 Time for TFZ to take on a much simpler Operation. Fiji (UK) VII Back And Forth Link 0.7.3.0 Today I demonstrate that a key principle of a given Standard Battle is knowing when to be on Offence or Defence. Ryujo (Japan) VI A More Reserved Approach Link 0.7.4.0 Today I discuss how I try to deal with +2 match-making as an aircraft carrier captain. Ranger (USA) VII Scratch One Flat-top Link 0.7.4.0 Today I discuss the concept of "carrier sniping" in World of Warships. Ryujo (Japan) VI Killjoy Link 0.7.4.1 Today I give my first impressions of using the Air Superiority Flight Controls for the Japanese aircraft carriers. Prinz Eugen (Germany) VIII Post-buff First Impressions Link 0.7.4.1 Today I give my first impressions of the Prinz Eugen following her buff in Update 0.7.4. Prinz Eugen (Germany) VIII Contest With Confidence Link 0.7.4.1 Today I show how the Prinz Eugen's buff gives her the ability to more closely support her team in contesting objectives. Prinz Eugen (Germany) VIII For The Long Haul Link 0.7.5.0 Today I wrap up my analysis of the Prinz Eugen's buff by aiming to get the most out of her newly added heal. New York (USA) V Bottom Tier, Not Bottom Feeder Link 0.7.5.0 Today I aim to overcome +2 match-making by simply doing what I can in the ship I am sailing. Shchors (USSR) VII Background Bully Link 0.7.5.0 Today I review the Tier VII Soviet Light Cruiser which, at a distance, makes some Battleships look tiny by comparison. Friant (France) III Cruiser 101 Link 0.7.5.1 Today I explain why I think the Friant is one of the best low-Tier ships for learning the basics of Cruiser gameplay. Ranger (USA) VII Counting The Cost Link 0.7.4.1 Today I discuss how making mistakes as a Carrier player can have a considerable impact on your team's chances of winning a match. Aoba (Japan) VI Stock But Significant Link 0.7.6.0 Today I discuss how sailing a stock ship is more of an exercise in map and game awareness than it is a painful chore. Khabarovsk (USSR) X Gunboat First, Destroyer Second Link 0.7.6.0 Today I review the Tier X Soviet Destroyer which is more of Gunboat with some Destroyer-type properties. Ishizuchi (Japan) IV In Hot Water Link 0.7.6.0 Today I review the Tier IV Japanese Premium Battleship that normally leaves a trail of fire in her wake! Tirpitz (Germany) VIII Planned Aggression Link 0.7.7.0 Today I give my first impressions of sailing the Tirpitz, a ship I have waited a long time to get my hands on. Minotaur (UK) X B is for Ben Link 0.7.7.0 Today I analyse a Minotaur gameplay which showcases the value of both objective control and restrained aggression in equal measure. Nelson (UK) VII Torpedoes on the Brain Link 0.7.6.0 Today I discuss how I try to anticipate incoming torpedoes when pushing an objective in a Battleship. Clemson (USA) IV Proud Puncher Link 0.7.7.0 Today I review the Tier IV American Destroyer that loves to knock-out enemy destroyers! Nelson (UK) VII Danger at Delta Link 0.7.7.0 Today I have to react to an unexpected enemy fleet appearing right in front of me whilst sailing in a rather slow Battleship. Will I sink or swim? Des Moines (USA) X Catch The Enemy Sleeping Link 0.7.7.0 Today I analyse the first of a series of gameplays featuring the Tier X American Heavy Cruiser known as the Des Moines; outlining my preferred build and playstyle in the process. Des Moines (USA) X A Push Too Far Link 0.7.7.0 Today I analyse the second of a series of gameplays featuring the Tier X American Heavy Cruiser known as the Des Moines; this time explaining some of the main disadvantages with my Damage Per Minute (DPM) orientated build. Shchors (USSR) VII Fine Tuning With IFHE Link 0.7.8.0 Today I finish off from where I left off in my original informal review of the Shchors by discussing how she benefits from the Tier IV captain skill known as IFHE. Nelson (UK) VII Storm in a Tea-cup Link 0.7.9.1 Today we take our fine British battleship right through the middle of the map directly towards the enemy base. Nelson (UK) VII A Matter of Survival Link 0.7.9.1 Today we push the Nelson's super-heal variant of the Repair Party consumable to the limit. Ognevoi (USSR) VIII Pick the Right Fight Link 0.7.10.2 Today I seek to fight the enemy's Destroyers on my terms. Latest video: Ognevoi - Picking the Right Fight Thank you for taking the time to check me out, and I hope my work has been of use to you! See you on the fair seas. Paul :)
  7. My clan happened to be lucky enough to have enough players during the early stages of clan battles to climb into Typhoon 1 quickly. I lead our shotcalling for most of that time and could observe the development of the meta game from start to now. Since there the season is slowly coming to an end but many teams are still looking to fight there way up, I decided to give it my take on how the clan battle metagame has developed, which ships and lineups are used, and some general experiences we made. Let us start with an overview of the ships. Some writers have tried to rank ships in a tier list, but we found that almost all ships are played successfully (although some ship classes allow for more versatility than others) since they offer different strengths and weaknesses. Only a few happen to be "strictly" inferior to other choices. I am sure many of you will have differing opinions, but the viability of ships turned out to be fairly conclusive in the higher leagues. Let's have a look: Battleships Common picks: Montana, Conqueror Inferior picks: Yamato, Kurfürst BBs tend to be rather similar, so the gradient from top to bottom is not that great. But because they all compete for a very similar role, small differences have a great impact in how optimal of a choice they are. You can certainly make all work for you to some degree, but you probably won't reach peak performance with the lower two. Montana: Montana is the currently most played BB simply due to her firepower. You want to be able to deliver 10-20k salvos through cruiser bows and punish any broadside. Against DDs you may get 8-10k dmg volleys as they turn away. These are the things Montana does the most reliably. Being able to punish enemy BBs for reckless turns is plenty enough, since they will rarely be your primary targets: Conqueror: Conqueror holds the edge in moving up to more aggressive positions due to her concealment and heal, giving her more opportunities to exert pressure on enemy positions without having to fully commit. In return she suffers from much less reliable firepower than Montana. Her HE is useful for when there is an opportunity to focus down the enemy battleship, but that is rather situational. Yamato: When compared to Montana, Yamato's better accuracy and shell parameters do not make up for the loss of three guns. The ability to overmatch battleship bows is hardly relevant since bowcamping between BBs is a rarity - you will only get caught up in a hail of torpedoes and cruiser HE. Yamato especially suffers from a weakness in turning, since her turret rotation is slow and her citadel the most exposed of all T10 BBs. Yamato players tend to have to play very carefully and lose quite some power for it. Kurfürst: The fast shell arcs and hydro are a benefit, but overall her weaknesses (concealment, maneuverability, size, dispersion) are just a little too much to consider her as a valid contender. Aganist the potent HE spam you tend to encounter, it can be difficult to get a Kurfürst into effective range as her armour scheme does not offer much of an advantage in the clan battle environment. The poor maneuverability around islands can also be a surprisingly relevant issue. Destroyers Common picks: Gearing, Z-52 Rare tech choices: Shimakaze, Khabarovsk Pointless: Grozovoi While there are clear cookiecutter favourites amongst DDs, there still is some variety in tech choices. Gearing: Simply good at everything. Good at knifefighting, has solid torps with long range, and the best smoke. This makes her good in flanking positions or central open waters (for example in Mountain Range), where she can hold off enemy DDs and her smoke lets her establish team strongpoints outside enemy radar range. Z-52: Z-52 trades the smoking capability for a long-range hydro, which can be very useful for shutting down caps. This ability is especially used on Hotspot and Islands of Ice. If an enemy DD enters the cap, the hydro will lock them down behind an island, enabling allies to get flanking positions. In open waters, the limited 10.5 km torpedo range is a noteworthy disadvantage since you rarely get that close. Shimakaze: Other than in random battles, Shima in clan battles commonly relies on 20 km torpedoes. Her ability in knifefights tends to be underestimated quite a bit, but in the end she still doesn't compare favourably in this role. Shimakaze lineups often attempt to take control of the open waters to then focus down the enemy battleship by combining the torpedo threat with long-range HE spam (good role for the Conqueror). I found that teams have learned to contest the spaces between caps more heavily instead of focussing on the caps only, which puts a damper on this strategy. Famously OMNI Strangers used the 20 km/gunboat Shima in this role in the early days of CBs. Khabarovsk: Khaba's main role is taking caps quickly. On Mountain Range for example it's nice not to have to set a ship aside for too long to take your A/B cap. Afterwards her speed lets her gather information, or she can linger around an enemy cap to threaten to take it while the rest of the team pushes another flank. On EU I have only seen LOBUZ run it frequently, but to a respectable success. Grozovoi: Grozovoi's strengths just don't fit very well into a clan battle environment, whereas her weaknesses (especially the large size and poor turning, which leave her an easy target) are devastating. In random battles she can farm great amounts of gun damage by firing from outside enemy gun angles or from a smoke, but in CB you won't get these opportunities very often. She doesn't have a good smoke, she runs an immense risk of getting absolutely wrecked in open water fights since you always have to count on supporting ships, and her torpedoes are nigh useless. Cruisers Backbone: Hindenburg, Des Moines Supplementary: Moskva, Zao Stylistic choice: Henri IV Tech pick: Minotaur Cruisers are where variety truly strikes. There may be cruisers commonly forming the backbones of all common lineups, but no cruiser is without a useful role. Hindenburg: Hindenburg is the main fighting choice of virtually every lineup. She deals absurd damage and has great tankiness, which allow her to control large zones by raw power. On EU, especially WGP2W went very heavy on Hindenburgs, running 3-4. Des Moines: Des Moines is a prime choice to lock down caps and is often met on the "neutral" C-caps on Mountain Range and Hotspot. She tends to hug her island waifu especially tight, since she's a close/mid range DPS monster but very vulnerable to long range fire. So you usually want to have some spotting and deterrence in her area to make sure enemies can't get flanking shots on her. Moskva: Long range radar, nice shell arcs, decently tanky. But her damage output is low, she is extremely vulnerable when her broadsides are ever exposed to fire, and can't turn unless she is perfectly covered. She generally plays a similar role to Des Moines but usually has to look out for positions further to the back. Zao: Zao's infamous ability to decide fights between destroyers with her mix of great concealment, awesome arcs, and big HE alpha can be very relevant to some playstyles that look to cripple enemy DDs early. Others use her concealment and speed to put her in flanking positions, either in combination with or as a replacement for a destroyer. Her low HP pool leave her vulnerable in frontal engagements though. Henri IV: She fulfills a similar flanking role to Zao, offering more speed and brute force in exchange for the concealment. Minotaur: The rarest of CB cruisers. The only role I have ever seen her played in was as a stealth radar ship that ambushes destroyers foolish enough to get into her detection range, and zones out all the smarter ones. However this is the style used TWA, who secured #1 EU for a very long time with a no DD/Radar Minotaur lineup On the eternal question of "range vs reload module", I found that Moskva and Hindenburg have a valid choice to make here just like in random battles. In some lineups Moskvas may be forced in positions where they may struggle with range. For Hindenburg it's a question between range for higher damage uptime, and reload for higher damage potential. Our Hindenburg specialist was able to use reload mod to its fullest, while I preferred range when filling in for him to increase pressure on the enemy battleship. For the others it's much more simple: Range for Des Moines and Zao, reload for Henri and Minotaur. Lineups Finally, some commonly used lineups. It turns out that successful lineups generally used either two, one, or zero destroyers. Back when clan battles started some players thought about 3 destroyer/3 cruiser lineups, but those did not stand the test of time. In any case, I think going by destroyer numbers allows for a good broad categorisation. Double DD Lineups Common base: 1 Gearing, 1 Z-52, 1 Hindenburg, 1 Zao, 1 Des Moines, 1 Moskva, 1 Montana. This lineup tries to combine all the different strengths of plain strong ships. You will often find Zao and Gearing form a tag team on one flank, Montana in a central position, and Z-52 with some cruiser support lock down a neutral cap. Our clan used to run this exact lineup a lot for the first month or so, since it is very adaptable and good at reactive play. That makes it tough to win against better teams since it's not very good at forcing the enemy's hand, but very save when playing teams who you expect to beat through individual skill or shotcalling. You can modify this lineup to your preferences by exchanging individual ships. WGP2W for example tweaked their lineup towards firepower and went with 3 Hindenburgs/1 Des Moines for cruisers, which is a smart choice as Z-52 can somewhat replace a radar on many maps. This way you almost have an in-between of a double and single DD lineup . Two DDs give good spotting utility, but you pay with low firepower. You have to set up vision advantages to make up for it. Sometimes this lineup allows you to counter enemy pushes by taking the enemy home cap with a sneaky destroyer. Double DD used to be the the defacto standard in EU for the first few weeks and is still played by good teams occasionally. Single DD Lineups I preferr Gearing with these lineups since you will generally use a double radar setup to lock down one cap. This leaves your DD to set up advanced strongpoints which can crossfire or isolate enemies. Against double DD lineups you can play rather aggressively due to your firepower advantage and you can often win even after losing a cruiser first, but losing your DD may cripple you. Against no DD lineups you have a distinct utility advantage while not falling too far behind in raw force. Overall, single DD lineups are currently the most popular in high ranks. DD-less Lineups Lineups without DDs are quite tricky. Naively played they will get shot at from enemies they cannot effectively retaliate against, and get whittled down. Well played they can zone out enemy spotting at first, then come back from a score deficit with decisive pushes that plain outgun the enemy. I have only ever seen them succeed with a stealthy radar Minotaur to zone or kill destroyers - which turns out to be not so radically different from a destroyer's role, since Minotaur's firepower contribution usually isn't all that important. TWA played this lineup with up to 5 radars (such as 2-3 Des Moines, 1-2 Hindenburg, 1 Moskva, 1 Minotaur) to make up for the loss in utility, but also ran firepower heavy versions with 4 Hindenburgs (which, in my experience, where less successful). Matchups I generally found that having one more destroyer than the enemy is a benefit, but playing 2 vs 0 DDs puts you into too much of a gunfight disadvantage. Overall I preferr the single DD lineups as a compromise between active/aggressive and reactive/passive gameplay. Videos For a glimpse into high level play, I can recommend WGP2W Athothek's youtube channel (he usually plays cruiser, often Hindenburg or Des Moines) and OMNI Flambass' Twitch VODs and Livestreams. Both of them are capable players on persistent top ranking clans. Notes/Edits As WGP2W noted, some of the information is rather old as fewer teams play double DD now (which was the de facto baseline for the first 2-3 weeks in EU, but now is one choice amongst many) and they no longer run the 2 DD/3 Hindenburg style. The question of what setup to choose depends a lot on individual players. One reason we ran the "double DD/one of all" setup for so long was that our Hindenburg player could hardcarry the damage portion. In times when he was less active, we ran into trouble on that front and switched to more damage heavy lineups. Single DD relieves some of the pressure on your cruisers to deal damage, but might require safer DD player. You also might run into pressure in other points as some of your cruisers now have to make due without dedicated destroyer supports. You have to replace information with pressure, and know how to account for plays that you might not be able to spot. On individual play: Keep in mind how many ships on each team are (effectively) engaging the enemy at a given time. When the enemy outnumbers your active ships, your team might be in trouble and you might need to look for a way to get active yourself. If that's not the case, don't freak out about not being in action. You can use the time to hold a key area or to prepare some other maneuver. To get into higher tiers, the first step is not making hasty decisions that get you killed. On individual play II: Learn to hold your fire when you can't win a damage exchange. Too many players engage enemy ships in losing fights for no reason. When two Hindenburgs push your Zao around, the Zao doesn't *have* to shoot back if she can get undected. This is basic stuff both for random and team battles, yet a common error. On range module on Hindenburg: Our Hindenburg player just broke up with me. This overview was originally posted to Reddit.
  8. SHIMAKAZE Ici je vais vous expliquer et détailler la manière de comment jouer le shimakaze, destroyer japonais de tiers 10 , en vous expliquant point par point chaque caractéristique qui fait la force et la faiblesse de ce navire. Mais aussi comment se comporter en début/ milieu et fin de game pour que par la suite vous puissiez maîtriser le shimakaze . Mais surtout que vous vous amusiez avec à collectionner les médailles liquidateurs et catastrophe naturel car bon on est d'accord c'est toujours plaisant à voir un navire qui a une inondation permanente et ne peux absolument rien faire . Ces caractéristiques : Batterie principal - Triple tourelles doubles de 127mm : AP 2200 / HE 1800 Temps de reload 5,74s Portée de tir 11,37km Temps de rotation des tourelles à 180° 22,78s Chance d'incendie à l'impact des obus HE 7% Torpille -Trois tube lance-torpilles quintuple : Type F3 / 8km de portée/ 131s de reload/ vitesse 76knot/ 21 366 dégât Type 93 mod. 3 / 12km de portée/ 153s de reload/ vitesse 67 knot/ 23 766 dégât Type 93 / 20km de portée/ 150s de reload/ vitesse 62knot/ 20966 dégât Armement anti-aérien - 127 mm/50 3rd Year Type mod. D 3 х 2 : Dégâts moyens par seconde 30.3 Portée de tir 5.01km - 25 mm/60 Type96 mod. 114 х 1 : Dégâts moyens par seconde25.2 Portée de tir 3.09km - 25 mm/60 Type96 Twin mod. 11 х 2 : Dégâts moyens par seconde 5 Portée de tir 3.09km - 25 mm/60 Type96 Triple mod. 12 х 3 : Dégâts moyens par seconde 12.2 Portée de tir 3.09km Maniabilité - Vitesse maximale 39knot - Rayon de la courbure de giration 690m - Temps de basculement du gouvernail 3s Dissimulation - Détectabilité par voie maritime 7.11km - Détectabilité par voie aérienne 4.23km Disclaimer : les valeurs pour la dissimulation et la vitesse sont celles stock de base , c'est à dire sans les modules et compétences du commandant. Je sais que vous allez me dire que c'est bien beau de mettre les caractéristiques du navire mais sans nous expliquer et j'en passe , ne vous inquiétez pas je vous vous détaillez point par point . Les canons : Pour ce qui est de la batterie principale le Shimakaze est conçu de cette manière : 1 tourelle double à l'avant et deux à l'arrière, avec cette configuration là vous avez un certain avantage quand vous kitez car vous montrez qu'une toute petite zone de votre navire ce qui veut dire qu'à tout moment cette zone peut être saturé et vous recevrez moins de dégâts, avec la possibilité d'aligner 4 canons de 127mm prêt à cracher les obus. Bref la plupart du temps j'ai vu bon nombre de shimakaze qui n'utilisaient pas leur canons ce qui est une erreur, ce n'est pas parce que le shima est connu pour ses torpilles qu'il fait négliger ses canons, vos canons vous serviront la plupart du temps à allumer des feux sur les navires qui auront réparé leur inondation dû à vos torpilles . De plus vous pouvez aussi les utiliser en duel de DD même si là vous partez avec un désavantage qui est que le shima est connu pour ne pas tenir les duel de gunfight . Pour ce qui est des "gunfight", je vous invite à toujours être opportuniste, c'est à dire à toujours prendre un duel qui sera gagné d'avance si vous affrontez des DD de tiers 10, sauf le cas ou vous affrontez un autre shima là se sera uniquement le votre propre maîtrise du DD et de votre skill qui parlera . De plus partez de principe que vous êtes le DD le plus désavantagé en terme de canon, n'allez pas engager un Gearing/YY/Z52/Khaba/Grozo/Harugumo ou le Daring car vous allez mourir dès le moment où le combat aura commencé . Les torpilles : Le shima dispose de trois type de torpilles avec leur caractéristiques qui leur sont propre. Les 8km sont pour un style de jeu très agressif et à la foi risqué mais dû fait de leur vitesse elles sont impardonnable pour n'importe quel navire que vous viserez, de plus pas beaucoup de gens utilisent les 8km car comme dit plus haut cela requiert un style de jeu agressif (et non pas kamikaze hein je vous vois venir). Pour ce qui est des torpilles de 12km elles vous proposeront un jeu assez élargit, elles vous permettront de les lancer à une distance proche ou moyenne sans pour autant vous mettre en danger de plus se sont les plus adéquat pour une personne qui vient tout juste d'avoir le shima et leur dégât est plus que correct. Alors les 20km dans un ancien temps sur wows c'était les long lance de la terreur car elles étaient furtives et dévastatrices, maintenant elles ont été nerf et sont toujours autant utilisé d'ailleurs les gens mettent souvent le skill de capitaine accel torps pour les 20km ce qui leur rajoutent de la vitesse mais baissent leur portée (16km), ces torpilles proposent un jeu disons plus "passif" dû fait de leur portée et de la prise de risque en moins mais cela ne va pas vous empêcher de vous rapprocher pour les utiliser. Par ailleurs je vous conseil de lire ce topic qui est tenu à jour, il vous sera d'une grande aide : Such vitesse many drift : De base sa vitesse est de 39knot (sans le boost de vitesse et le drapeau) ce qui de base est un atout pour vous ça vous permettra d'aller sur des cap/positions avec une aisance des plus sereine (et sans à devoir attendre que le navire bouge ses grosses fesses de pachydermes). Qualite et défaut du Shimakaze : Qualité -très bonne dissimulation une fois le module d'équipe ainsi que le capitaine adéquat (5.6 de dissimulation une fois full) -capable d'outspot n'importe quel destroyer (sauf yugumo(5.5) et kagero (5.4) ) -très bon en conteste de cap ou de position - rapide (une fois le boost de vitesse d'activé) - torpilles qui font d'important dégâts Défaut -extrêmement faible contre un porte-avion au vue de son AA -il est largement sur-classé par les autres destroyer de tiers 10 des différentes nation en jeu - même si ces canons font de bon dégât en combat 1v1 avec un autre DD de même tiers est une défaite pour vous Gameplay du Shimakaze Son gameplay est assez "simple" si l'on y regarde de plus près, avec le Shimakaze votre mission sera de contester des cap ou des positions selon le mode de bataille dans lequel vous êtes (domination et standard). De plus avec votre excellente dissimulation vous n'aurez aucun problème à spotter n'importe quel navire sans être spotté en retour (sauf cas de radar ), cela vous permettra de lancer vos torpilles à répétions en fonction du type de torpille que vous avez pris . Une chose à garder en tête vous êtes les yeux de votre team donc de prime à bord les 5 première minutes de jeu sont toujours les plus "décisif" car si vous mourez dans les 5 première minutes vous serez inutile pour votre team. Du fait que vous êtes un destroyer de type torpedoboat ( c'est à dire que son jeu se base sur ses torpilles) ne vous dites pas que ses canons principaux sont inutiles, en kite vous offrez une petite partie de votre navire à l'ennemi et vous vous avez deux tourelles doubles prêt à tirer donc toujours pensez à kite (en gros fuir tout en esquivant et attaquant le navire ennemi) et à les amener sur vos alliés qui seront là pour vous aider . D'ailleurs je vous recommande de jouer votre shima avec les torpilles de 12km car elles vous permettront de vous habituer à jouer au départ safe puis par la suite avec de l'expérience d'avoir un gameplay un peu plus agressif, ce que j'entends par agressif c'est d'utiliser vos torpilles à une distance de 7km pour ne laisser aucune chance aux navires que vous allez cibler, le gameplay safe c'est de jouer à bonne distance (8-9km) pour pouvoir vous échapper plus facilement s'il y a un radar qui vous spot . Même si vous n'avez pas une smoke américaine vous pouvez quand même smoke vos croiseurs alliés (Des Moine, Worcester et Mino ect) qui se feront un plaisir à vous aider sur une cap / position pour éliminer le destroyer adverse. D'ailleurs dernière chose importante avec le Shimakaze, ne lancez jamais vos 15 torpilles directement c'est une perte de temps, il est plus préférable de les lancer avec un décalage de 15 à 20s car le premier set de 5 torpilles fera que le navire touché utilisera sa réparation et donc le second set de torpilles sera là pour mettre une inondation permanente, c'est toujours mieux de les décaler que de les lancer toute en même temps. Il est toujours préférable d'avoir un set de torpilles en reload que tous les set . Chose qui est la PLUS IMPORTANTE en début de game regardez TOUJOURS la composition de navire que vous avez dans votre team et dans l'équipe ennemie, cela vous dressera un tableau de ce qu'il pourra se passer dans votre game. Je vais vous mettre différent comportement à avoir dans différents type de cas : Premier cas : En push vous aurez à jouer votre rôle principale de scout, bien sur ne vous jetez bêtement il vous faudra des alliés derrière vous près à tirer sur le ou les navires que vous spotterez. De plus dans cette configuration vos torpilles ne seront pas souvent efficaces car l'ennemi voyant un push prendra la fuite donc s'il n'y a pas de DD dans votre secteur de push ouvrez le feu avec vos canons. Tout cela sera possible après que vous aurez bien analysé là minimap pour voir ce qu'il y aura potentiellement sur votre route , pensez à vérifier les navires restants dans les deux équipes pour savoir quoi faire . Deuxième cas : En supériorité numérique ou en points votre rôle sera d'une part de spot les navires pour votre équipe mais aussi à défendre le cap ou la position. En gros vous aurez à smoke vos croiseurs pour qu'ils soient prêt à vous aider quand vous défendrez le cap ou la position, pensez toujours à demander dans le chat in game si tel ou tel croiseur à besoin d'une smoke. De plus au vu de cette situation vos torpilles (qu'importe celles que vous prenez ) vous seront d'une aide à couler les BB, croiseurs et peut être les destroyer s'ils sont dans leur smoke. D'ailleurs n'engagez pas de combat si vous êtes seul car c'est le meilleur moyen d'être mort et de priver votre team de spot , donc soyez toujours accompagnez . Par contre cela ne vous empêchera pas d'utiliser votre minimap, même si vous êtes en supériorité il vous faut l'utiliser car c'est un atout majeur . Troisième cas : En infériorité numérique ou en point votre rôle va être en priorité de donnez la vision à votre équipe et de ne pas engager de combat temps que vous n'aurez pas de soutient . En premier lieux vérifier ce qu'il reste en navire des deux cotés cela vous donnera un aperçu du travail à faire , de plus regarder votre minimap cela vous indiquera les possibles chemins à prendre mais surtout à voir où se situe les navires dangereux (Des Moine, Worcester, Mino ect) . Dans ce cas là votre smoke sera extrêmement utile pour sauver/protéger vos alliés donc n'oubliez jamais de regarder autours de vos et de voir qui en a besoin cela peut vous sauver la partie. D'ailleurs avec votre shimakaze si vous avez bien suivit les indications précédentes vous pourrez alors spot tout en lançant vos torpilles par contre n'utiliser pas vos canons rester un maximum invisible , c'est en restant invisible que vous serez efficace de plus en répétant ça vous pourrez au fur et à mesure gagner des points et donc peut être gagner la partie . Modules pour le Shimakaze Je vais vous faire la liste des modules à prendre et dans l'ordre pour pas vous perdre , par contre je ne prend pas encore en compte le module légendaire malgré qu'il soit intéressant en FFA . Liste des modules : Armement principaux modification 1 : vous sera utile pour ne pas perdre vos tubes lance-torpilles ainsi que vos canons. Propulsion modification 1 : vous évitera de perdre constamment votre moteur Système de visée modification 1 : j'ai pas besoin de vous faire de dessin pour celui car les deux autres dans le slot 3 sont pas utiles Propulsion modification 2 : vous permettra d’accélérer un poil plus vite en étant à l'arrêt Système de dissimulation modification 1 : Obligatoire sur votre shima pour avoir une meilleur dissimulation Tube lance-torpille modification 3 : un atout majeur pour le shima, il vous apportera du reloads pour vos torpilles. Avec ces modules ci-dessus vous serez prêt avec votre shima, c'est la compo typique pour le shima , oui je n'ai pas mis le module légendaire car cela dépend uniquement des goût des joueurs et je préfère mettre cette compo qui est fait pour ce DD. Skill du commandant Je vais vous mettre à disposition différent type de commandant pour votre shimakaze mais surtout quels skill à prendre en premier et pourquoi, bien sur se seront des commandant dit basique et par la suite se sera à vous de faire votre commandant en fonction de votre gameplay . Premier type de commandant (pour le début) : Pour ce premier commandant je vous ai mis des compétences qui sauront vous aider en partie. Certes c'est un commandant assez basique mais pour un début c'est amplement suffisant de plus au fil du temps vous pourrez le changer pour en refaire un autre qui sera en rapport avec votre type de gameplay avec le shimakaze . En premier lieu vous devrez prendre ces points en priorité : - Soit cible prioritaire soit maintenance préventive là se sera en fonction de vous -Ultime résistance est obligatoire de le prendre dès le début cela vous évitera de vous retrouver bêtement à l'arrêt après que votre moteur soit touché -Expert en capacité de survie vous apportera plus de HP à votre shima et en plus cela vous permettra d'apprendre à bien utiliser vos smoke -Expert en dissimulation est obligatoire sans ça vous n'êtes plus le DD le plus furtif du tiers 10 En second lieu : -Soit cible prioritaire ou maintenance préventive selon ce que vous avez pris au début -Adrénaline rush vous sera utile si vous avez perdu pas mal d'HP pendant la game selon améliorera le reload de vos canons et torpilles (de pas beaucoup mais ça reste une aide) -Surintendant pour avoir vos quatre slot de smokes ce qui vous aidera si vous préférez jouer avec les 4 smokes -Expertise de l'armement des torpilles cela vous apportera une réduction de reload sur vos torpilles . Comme vous pouvez le voir c'est un commandant basique mais pour débuter en shimakaze peut vous être utile, mais une fois que vous avez fait vos armes su le shima je vous recommande de faire un commandant en fonction de ce que vous avez besoin et donc à vous les heures de réflexions pour trouver votre commandant "parfait" . Deuxième type de commandant (avec expérience) : Celui ci sera envisageable une fois que vous avez maîtrisé votre shima et que vous connaissez assez bien le jeu, vous remarquerez que j'ai mis RPF c'est un atout assez intéressant voir important pour le shimakaze car il vous indiquera s'il y a un navire assez proche de vous et donc vous serez prêt à l’accueillir comme il se doit . D'ailleurs il n'y a pas surintendant aussi car avec les 3 smokes de base il vous faudra apprendre à bien gérer vos smoke et à bien les utiliser mais ne vous inquiétez pas avec le temps vous aurez l'expérience nécessaire . De plus il n'y à pas cible prioritaire ce qui peut vous faire défaut au début, alors non je ne vais pas invoquer le fait d'avoir un sixième sens pour esquiver car c'est bête comme pas possible, il vous faudra constamment regarder autour de vous dès que vous êtes spot pour voir s'il y a des tirs dans votre direction afin d'entamer une manœuvre d'esquive En premier lieu : -Maintenance préventive -Ultime résistance -Expert en capacité de survie -Expert en dissimulation En deuxième lieu : -Adrénaline Rush -Expertise de l'armement des torpilles -RPF Alors vous pouvez aussi prendre RPF une fois que vous avez débloqué expert en dissimulation cela dépendra uniquement de vos choix. De plus je vous met à disposition un site qui vous permettra de créer vos build de commandant dans le cas ou vous hésitez : (http://shipcomrade.com/captcalc) . Les consommables Il est important de prendre les consommables prémiums pour votre shimakaze, alors oui ils coûtent cher mais ils sont extrêmement utile mais aussi ils ont un temps de reloads réduit ce qui vous sauvera selon les situations que vous devrez affronter . Liste des consommables : Équipe de contrôle des avaries 2 : durée 5s/ temps de reload 40s Générateur de fumé 2 : durée de génération 20s/ durée de l'écran de fumée 97s/ reload 160s/ charge 3 (sans surintendant) Boost du moteur 2 : durée 120s/ reload 120s/ charge 2 (sans surintendant) En tous cas j'espère que ce guide du shimakaze vous sera utile pour vos début de partie, de toute façon vous verrez que le shima est un bon DD qui est là pour farmer les dégâts et spot en masse les navires adverses, de plus c'est celui qui est "simple" à prendre en main une fois que vous l'aurez maîtrisé . En bonus je vais vous mettre un replay de mon shima , bon y'a des erreurs à ne pas reproduire sur ce replay car même si c'est une game banale il n'en est pas moins qu'il y a des erreurs de jugement de ma part enfin bref vois le replay en question (ça peut vous donner un aperçu malgré les erreurs) :
  9. The idea to write this has been developing over my entire way through WoWs, from potato to unicum. Thanks to World of Tanks experience I was able to start at least with a 50% winrate, but it took a long time to get it into the super-unicum range and play for the top 10 in clan battles. However, keep in mind that not every player plays just to get the best results. Playing for fun is perfectly fine, in fact it may be strange to take WoWs so seriously, especially the random battles. But many players do have the ambition to do as well as they can, so this is for them. The most fundamental difference I've observed in good vs bad players, including myself as a beginner vs now, is this difference in mentality: Bad players think about opportunities. Good players think about dangers. So if you're not performing as well as you want to, let's have a look at how to get better by approaching the game from the right mindset. Where bad players fall short Bad players always imagine ways how they can succeed. That leads to all sorts of suicidal plays. From the very start they believe things like: "I will rush straight into this cap, win the fight there, conquer the cap, and that's how we will win this game!" This usually just gets them killed and puts their team at a disadvantage. For the same reasons, bad players love torpedo rushes, try to ambush enemy ships from behind islands, and always push forwards. Whatever they do, they're certain its going to work. Until it doesn't and they're dead. And then they blame their team instead of themselves, thinking "it just failed because my team didn't support me properly". Most people seem to believe that bad players are bad for the opposite reason: That they always camp in the back and never do anything. But surprisingly, those are much less bad to have. Far and away most games are decided by which team loses more players early. If a team merely takes the caps without getting a kill lead, they will often get impatient and push into the camping enemy, throwing their safe win away, because they have too many noobs who keep imagining how their rush is totally going to work. Make no mistake, camping in the back is still far from an actually good strategy, but its better than being dead. You can observe the truth of this even in high skill matches. Very early in a T10 ranked season at rank 2-5, when there are virtually no players below about 58% global winrate, matchmake monitors will let you observe a very persistent trend: The players with the worst winrates are always the first to die, even when you would generally think they're safe and competent players with their 58%+ winrates. In true top tier clan battles it is a bit different, but even getting into hurricane league takes little more than just knowing how not to [edited]up. How good players succeed So what do good players think about if they don't think about what great play to make? They think about what plays *not* to make. They arrive at the best possible play by eliminating all the dangerous ones first. This is the priority list of what dangers to avoid: The danger to take too much damage. The most important counters to this are angling and using your concealment range. Good players rarely get closer to the enemy than the distance at which they can get undetected again once they stop shooting. Even if you are a BB, you want the opportunity to turn away in stealth, or to repair fires and wait out your damage control cooldown. Getting into a position that you cant escape from needs to be *very* well planned out. Your main tool to avoid this problem is to position properly relative to your team. In a DD you need allied cruisers and BBs to scare away enemy DDs or radars from rushing you. In a cruiser or a BB you need something in front of you to screen away enemy DDs from permaspotting you. The danger to get locked down in a position. If you aren't absolutely certain that the enemy is weaker on your flank, you want to have the opportunity to turn away savely and run before they get too close to you. This is why good players don't commit their ships early until they know more about the enemy positioning. The danger of torpedoes and airplanes. Overall fairly similar to the risks above - as long as you can turn freely, you're usually going to be fine. Torpedoes are easy to stay safe from since you can use allies to spot for you. With planes... well better pray you have some good AA cruisers on your team. The danger to deal no damage. Obviously just being safe doesn't win you the game, but a dead ship does not deal any damage either. If you followed the checklist to this point you are sure not to be dead, so you can actually do something. In order to deal damage you need to stay in a position that (1) is close enough to the enemy, (2) where your guns are not stuck behind an island, and (3) from where you can quickly move on to the next battle once your current one is decided. Going around all the way at the flanks has a high risk of leaving you useless, which is why good players tend to play to more central positions. The danger to lose by score. Yes this is pretty damn far down. Ultimately the cap belongs to the last ship still afloat. It is better to get the cap a little later than to die for it, which by itself can be a 100 point swing to the enemy's favour. Most importantly this danger means not to let the enemy get any free caps. If they take the cap, at least get an HP lead in return, so that you can bully the enemy away and retake the cap later. This is also where specialties like radars become important to deny the enemy from capping safely. In summary, you need to position around caps in a way that lets you defend them. Because good players primarily think about dangers and possible mistakes, they rarely talk about great plays, but very often about mistakes. In their view games are decided by mistakes, not by heroic actions. Any successful push is only possible because the other team allowed it. Why does such a passive approach work? Because every game starts evenly. The enemy has to struggle as hard to get a lead as you do. If you do nothing and the enemy does nothing, you at least get a draw. Playing aggressive is generally a disadvantage. It means that you run into crossfires while the enemy can always angle against you. It means your shells need to lead further than theirs. It means that you run into enemy torps while your torps won't reach. Therefore your first priority should be to play defensively and punish any enemies who overextend. This happens in nearly every random battle, but even in clan battles up to high typhoon league. Only think about more aggressive action if the enemy does not give you such free kills. But there is no need to be more aggressive than your enemy if you are evenly matched. Having a standoff at 15-20 km is nothing unusual and should not worry you. Why should you make a risky move if the enemy doesn't? Instead, just trade as effectively as you can and gain a lead that way, or look for another position where you can be more effective. This way you will soon open up spaces to take caps. Caps are primarily a tool to force the enemy to push into you. You don't want to let the enemy take any caps, because having fewer caps means that you are forced to push. Your goal is to put the enemy into a spot where they are the ones who need to push. Proper openings for aggressive plays are rare, unless the game is already decided one way or the other. The decision to make such a play should only be the result after you have evaluated all dangers. This is how you learn to see the highest % plays, the plays that are most likely to give you an advantage in the game. If you learn how to play save first, you will progressively see more and more openings where you can push for more damage and be a bigger frontline presence without taking real risks. A rundown of how this works in reality Let's say you stick to the whole checklist of dangers. How does a game pan out if the enemy fails at it? If the enemy fails at the first step, they overextend into your team's firepower giving you a lead in HP or ships. Then you can slowly push the enemy away from the caps win from there. If the enemy gets into a position where they can no longer retreat against a superior force, for example because they hugged an island too far up, you can slowly move up and pick them apart without having to take much of a risk. If they lose ships to torps or air strikes... well, easy win. and 5. if they aren't in a position to threaten you at the caps, take the caps and wait it out. If they do not make any of these mistakes, you now have an even game. The caps are presumably covered by radar and/or nearby DDs. Some cruisers may hug islands to provide radar or AA, most of them are in the open water wth the BBs however and are free to pick their fights. Now its about coordinating the threat to take a cap, vision, and firepower support to get better trades on the enemy. You have a real game on your hands. The screw-up hierarchy of clan battles This concept came to my mind towards the end of Season 1 of clan battles, when the meta had settled and changes became more gardual. It is a pattern how most high-tier metas develop. In each stage of development, a different type of ship is the weak point that will likely get punished and lose the game. In the beginning games were decided by DD mistakes. Nobody knew yet how to secure caps, so the ability of DDs to decide how aggressive they could threaten caps was absolute key. Most games were decided because a team either lost their DD, or gave up a cap uncontested. When the DDs learned how to play solidly, the next point of weakness were the radar cruisers who were supposed to secure caps. Because they didn't know how to position properly and how to time their radar, they would either let the enemy get a free cap or die. These were the things they had to fix - whether they dealt any damage almost didn't matter. Once all of this had settled, the final step was about the open-water cruisers on the flanks. With everyone playing nice and safe at the caps and neither side getting a lead that way, it was up to the ships which could threaten to reach around the enemy's flanks to decide the game, by threatening the positions that enemy DDs and radar crusers used for cover. In Season 1 this was all about Zao, which was able to fight in open waters and had the concealment advantage to drive away bigger cruisers like Hindenburg and Moskva. When we began with clan battles in season 1, I played all of these roles in exactly this order since I was our shotcaller and dictated our setups. Whenever something didn't work and I didn't understand why, I tried it out myself until it worked. I've developed a bit of a Zao fetish since then and played little else, although in season 3 that role was partially overtaken by Worcester. The meta has gotten a whole lot more varied since that time, as ships like Worcester, Minotaur, and Stalingrad have shaken it up a fair bit, but I still believe there is some truth in this model. If you're not in Hurricane yet, this may be helpful to you. Evaluating how active or risky you should play There is a simple way to tell whether your team is currently in a good or bad spot, and how badly you need to act if you are currently not fighting yourself: count how many ships of each team is currently effectively involved in battle. If your team has more active ships, they are supposed to gain an advantage. In that case you have time to improve your position and only pick the best engagements. Its the enemy who now has to bring more ships to engage in battle. If both teams are fighting evenly, play as normal. If your team has fewer ships in battle, you likely need to make something happen. However, instead of pushing into the enemy you might want to consider to turn around and support your losing flank, since the enemy may push through there soon and make themselves vulnerable. Keep this in mind to avoid making mistakes especially in clan battles. During our first clan battles we had a lot of cases of players dying and putting us into a difficult spot because they "felt like they were too useless in their position", even though we were already winning and they didn't need to do anything at all. And then there is of course the factor of score. If a score loss approaches, there is obviously no point to prioritising one's own safety. At some point the danger list reverses its priorities, since your death is meaningless now. Don't assume this too quickly though. If your team is already behind, the enemy overextending into poor engagements is often your only chance of a comeback. Similarly, if you are on the winning side you can of course afford a little more aggression, but be cautious not to through it, it happens all too frequently. Other notes on getting good * In most games your team has a flank where they are stronger, and a flank where they are weaker. Don't hesitate to surrender the cap if you are on the weaker side. If you are on the stronger side, drive the enemy away from the cap until you can take it, and then think about your next move. Moving into the enemy half of the map is usually a mistake. Either you overextend into focus fire, or you don't deal enough damage because the enemy is kiting you, or it leads you away from the caps. After winning the battle for a cap, the right choice is almost always to stay on your half of the map and move towards the next cap. * To get through the list of dangers, you need 1) map awareness, 2) the ability to predict map movements, and 3) decent knowledge of all ships in the game to evaluate when exactly you are in danger. You need to know what type of DPS to expect, torp and radar ranges, have a decent awareness of cooldowns, and so on. * Never underestimate how long it may take you to kill an enemy. So many people die because they make this mistake and end up eating more damage or being spotted for longer than they thought. So do not overextend in order to chase a kill. Simply getting an HP advantage and forcing them to escape is usually all you need. Really being able to force a kill is not the norm. * The best position to be is almost always where the enemy is going to push next, i.e. a defensive movement. But its easily possible to overextend in a defense, keep the right distance and stick with allies. * Going solo can be an option if there is no CV, but it usually limits you to very careful play. You will likely have to wait until the enemy engages on your allies to open up fire savely. If an enemy group is pushing through your half of the map, going wide towards the map borders to threaten their flank tends to be very powerful, making it very dangerous for them to advance. Even if they chase you down, if you just survive long enough your team will have a numbers advantage on the rest of the map and probably win. * Your choices almost always rely on positioning relative to your teammates. But unless your allies respond to you in chat, do not assume that they will cooperate with you. Instead, arrange yourself so that they fit into your plans. Use them as meat shields if you have to. * Not relying on your team includes to not get into any position from which your team has to bail you out again. Being able to escape when crap hits the fan is your responsibility alone - do not put your team into a position where they have to take a bad engagement to save you. Lastly, keep in mind that your own gameplay is the only thing you can influence. WoWs is a random team game, so other players may make mistakes and lose you games, but flaming them doesn't help you either, so let's try to stay civil. You yourself are the only variable you can change. I hope this helps anyone who wishes to improve. This post was originally written for Reddit here.
  10. Capitaine_Clement

    [GUIDE] IJN GUNBOAT

    Bonjour tout le monde, Bon, je suis un peu fan de cette ligne, vous l'auriez compris. Avec la sortie prochaine du Kitakaze et de l'Harugumo : Et bien je me suis dit qu'il serait bon de faire un petit guide sur les gunboat japonais, au nombre de 3 (sans compter l'HSF Harekaze). Bon, je vais pas vous mentir, ce guide, il en sort pas de mon chapeau. C'est une compilation de plusieurs guide, tuto ect, que j'ai traduit, et dont la source principale, c'est celle ci : https://www.reddit.com/r/WorldOfWarships/comments/6ygfsl/akizuki_a_brief_guide/ Fin bref, le voici tout traduit, tout beau et même enrichi!!! Bonne lecture, et désolé pour les potentiels fautes (si quelqu'un veux les corriger, qu'il m'écrive en mp) [GUIDE considéré comme fini, ce qui n'exclue pas de possible modification en fonction de patch / remarque / conseil ect] I - PRESENTATION II- DEBUT DE PARTIE : III- SE BATTRE CONTRE UN DESTROYER IV : MILIEU DE PARTIE : V : FIN DU JEU : VI : BUILDS : Voilà, ce guide est finis. J'espère qu'il vous à plu, qu'il était agréable à lire et surtout, utile. Je rappelle que je n'es personnellement pas ces navires, j'ai donc utiliser plusieurs sources. Si vous n'êtes pas d'accord, que vous avez des choses à rajouter, laisser une réponse, et je me ferrai un plaisir de modifier mon guide pour le rendre le plus exact et utile possible. Si il est suffisamment utile, peut être que @Tanatoy ou ceux en charge de cela pourrez l'épingler?
  11. Tobnu

    Der Signalflaggen-Guide

    Signalflaggen sind die kleinen bunten Dinger, die historisch verwendet wurden, um anderen Schiffen in Sichtweite Nachrichten, wie z.b. England expects that every man will do his duty zukommen zu lassen. Sie sind zu unterscheiden von Erinnerungsfahnen, die bei WoWs gewöhnlich keine Wirkung haben Signalflaggen sind ab Stufe 10 im Wehrpass verfügbar und erhöhen die Möglichkeiten der Spieler erheblich. Signalflaggen sind generell nützlich, aber oft sieht man Schiffe, die über die Toppen beflaggt sind, und wo man sich fragt, ob die wirklich alle notwendig sind. Im extremen Gegensatz dazu lehnen einzelne Spieler die Verwendung von Flaggen komplett ab. Flaggen kann man im Premiumshop kaufen, aber auch durch Leistung erspielen, oder aus Containern oder für Events oder Missionen erhalten. Ich persönlich halte das Kaufen von Flaggen für Geldverschwendung - wer echte Euros in das Spiel investieren will, macht das klüger in Premiumschiffe oder Premiumspielzeit. Wann setzt man Flaggen ein? Flaggen verbessern entweder die Performance des Schiffes im Gefecht oder verbessern die wirtschaftliche Ausbeute nach der Schlacht. Flaggen des ersten Typs können helfen, Defizite des Schiffs zu verbessern, oder Stärken noch weiter zu verstärken. Ihre Wirkung ist fix, und selten kann man exakt feststellen, ob ihr Einsatz wirklich etwas genutzt hat, oder ob man dasselbe Ergebnis vielleicht auch ohne Flagge erreicht hätte. Bei Flaggen des zweiten Typs kann man in der Gefechtsauswertung exakt nachlesen, wieviel Bonus sie gegeben haben. Für sie gilt (mit einer Ausnahme) allgemein: Je mehr Basisertrag man erspielt hat, desto mehr Ertrag bringt die Flagge. „Zehn Prozent von 1000 sind mehr als zehn Prozent von 100“ klingt wie eine Binsenweisheit, aber man sieht oft genug solche Flaggen auch an absoluten Lowtier-Schiffen oder in co-op-Gefechten, wo der Basisertrag niedriger ist. Gerade wenn man wenige Flaggen hat, sollte man sie gezielt einsetzen. Flaggen können helfen, bestimmte Ziele zu erreichen. In einem Gefecht 500 freie xp zu erspielen ist ohne Flaggenunterstützung nicht einfach, +300 % freie xp durch ein Papa Papa-Signal machen es deutlich einfacher. Missionen, die Trefferzahlen der Sekundärarty erfordern, sind mit der Nahkampfflagge etwas einfacher, Brandmissionen mit India X-Ray und Victor Lima usw. Flugzeugträger können vier Flaggen setzen, alle anderen Schiffstypen acht. Persönlich setze ich Flaggen des ersten Typs eher sparsam ein. etwa wenn ich Division fahre, in gewerteten Gefechten oder (wenn es sie mal gibt) in Clangefechten, oder wenn ich gezielt auf Missionserfolge spiele. Dadurch gehen mir die Flaggen eigentlich nie aus. Eher vermehren sie sich, weil mehr dazu kommen als ich verbrauche. Flaggen des zweiten Typs setze ich möglichst optimal ein. Da die Frage „Wann setzte ich welches Flaggensignal wann ein?“ mir im Clanchat gestellt wurde, habe ich dazu eine kleine, von meinen subjektiven Ansichten geprägte, Handreichung verfasst und teile sie mit der Community: November Settle Seventeen (aka Flakflagge) Erhältlich für: Klarer Himmel Wirkung: +10 % mittlerer Schaden der Flaklafetten, +10 % Schaden für Flugzeuge mit Heckbewaffnung Diese Flagge ist fast ein Muss für Flugzeugträger, zum einen, weil sie Flugzeuge mit Heckbewaffnung tragen, zum anderen weil sie gerne Ziele der gegnerischen Flugzeugträger werden. Auf anderen Schiffen lohnt sie sich nur, wenn eine größere Anzahl Flaks da ist. Hat man sie gesetzt und ist kein Flugzeugträger im Spiel, hat man die Flagge verschwendet – ich setze sie daher nur, wenn ich selbst Träger oder Division mit einem Träger fahre oder wenn zufällig gerade eine Mission das Abschießen von Fliegern erfordert. Mike Yankee Soxisix (aka Nahkampf- oder Secondaryflagge) erhältlich für: Nahkampfexperte gibt +5 % Reichweite und – 5% Streuung und Ladezeit der Sekundärgeschütze Die Flagge für Leute, die den dreckigen Nahkampf lieben. Lohnt sich besonders an Schiffen, die eine umfangreiche Sekundärbewaffnung tragen, wie deutschen Schlachtschiffe. India X-Ray Erhältlich für: Brandstifter Wirkung: +1 % Brandwahrscheinlichkeit für Kaliber über 160mm, +0,5 Brandwahrscheinlichkeit für Kaliber darunter, +5 % Chance einer fatalen Munitionsexplosion Die Flagge lohnt sich an Schiffen, die viel HE verschießen. Aufgrund der erhöhten Explosionsgefahr sollte daneben eine Explosionsflagge gesetzt sein. Juliet Whisky Unaone Erhältlich für: Abwickler Wirkung: +15 % Chance, Wassereinbrüche zu verursachen, +5 % Chance auf eigene Detonation Diese Flagge setzt man, wenn man mit Torpedos arbeitet, daher findet man sie häufig auf Zerstörern und mitunter auch Flugzeugträgern. Aufgrund der gesteigerten Explosionsgefahr empfielt sich das gleichzeitige Setzen der Detonationsflagge – außer man will seine Explosionschance erhöhen, um neue Detonationsflaggen zu farmen. Victor Lima Erhältlich für: Vernichter Wirkung: +1 % Brandwahrscheinlichkeit für Kaliber über 160mm, +0,5 Brandwahrscheinlichkeit für Kaliber darunter, +4 % Chance auf Wassereinbruch Ähnlich wie India X-Ray, aber ohne den Nachteil der gesteigerten Explosionsgefahr. Lohnt sich offensichtlich für Schiffe, die sowohl HE schießen und mit Torpedos arbeiten, z.b. hochstufige amerikanische Zerstörer, aber pyromane Kapitäne werden sie oft auch setzen, ohne über Torpedos zu verfügen. Hotel Yankee (aka Rammflagge) Erhältlich für: Sturkopf Wirkung: -20% Rammschaden vom Gegner, +50% Rammschaden am Gegner Rammen ist eine Taktik, die selten nutzt: Sinnvoll ist es eigentlich nur, um als fast totes Schiff dem Gegner noch ordentlich Schaden reinzudrücken, oder wenn es sich um den letzten Gegner handelt und man selbst nicht der letze des eigenen Teams ist. Meist geht man beim Rammen selbst unter -man nimmt Schaden in Höhe der Basis-HP des Gerammten und gibt Schaden in Höhe der eigenen Basis-HP. Mit der Flagge verliert man nicht mehr ganz so viel und überlebt vielleicht, aber die Taktik ist zu selten nützlich, als dass man dieses Signal setzen müsste. November Foxtrott Erhältlich für: Großkaliber Wirkung: -5% Nachladezeit für alle Verbrauchsmaterialien Eine der universell nützlichsten Flaggen für jedes Schiff, das Verbrauchsmaterialien hat. Nutzt natürlich mehr, wenn man mehrere Verbrauchsmaterialien hat. Lohnt daher vor allem auch für Schiffe mit dem Kapitänsskill „Inspekteur“. Sierra Mike Erhältlich für: Doppelschlag Wirkung: +5% Höchstgeschwindigkeit des Schiffes. Diese Flagge nutzt entweder extrem langsamen Schiffen wie manchen amerikanischen Schlachtschiffen (um wenigstens etwas schneller an der Front zu sein und etwas beweglicher zu werden) als auch ohnehin schnellen Schiffen, um noch schwerer getroffen zu werden. Sinnvoll ist z.b. der Einsatz auf Zerstörern, die ihren Nebel für Torpedonachladeautomatik oder Heal von Bord geben mussten, oder auf französischen Kreuzern mit Turboboost. India Delta Erhältlich für: Dreadnaught gibt +20% Trefferpunkte, die eine Reparaturmannschaft zurückgibt. Eine typische Flagge für Schlachtschiffe, aber eigentlich für jedes Schiff mit Reparaturteam nützlich. Juliet Yankee Bissotwo Erhältlich für: Unsinkbar Wirkung: -20% Erholungszeit nach Wassereinbruch Eine selten nützliche Flagge, da man Wassereinbrüche meistens recht zügig repariert, bevor der Schaden zu groß wird. Einen großen Effekt zeigt die Flagge nur, wenn man zweimal kurz hintereinander Wassereinbruch bekommt und das Schadensbekämpfungsteam noch nachläd. Lohnt sich daher praktisch nur auf Schiffen mit hohem HP-Pool. India Yankee Erhältlich für: Feuerfest Wirkung: -20% für das Löschen von Bränden Deutlich nützlicher als Juliet Yankee Bissotwo, da man oft recht schnell hintereinander angezündet wird und man das Schadensbekämpfungsteam oft nicht direkt auf den ersten Brand schickt. Falls man es nicht einsetzt, verringert India Yankee den Schaden, den man durch das Ausbrennenlassen des Feuers nimmt. Auch dieses Signal nutzt mehr auf Schiffen mit einem hohen HP-Pool. Juliet Charlie (aka Detonationsflagge) Erhältlich für: Detonation Wirkung: absoluten Schutz vor Detonation der eigenen Munition (?) oder -100% Explosionschance (Es ist unklar, ob ein Schiff, das zugleich Flaggen, die die Explosionschance steigern, und dieses Signal gesetzt haben, explodieren können oder nicht) Eine absolut nützliche Flagge, denn eine Detonation früh im Gefecht bedeutet volle Kosten, aber nur geringe Einnahmen. Ich benutze sie meist nur bei hohen Tierstufen, da man so oft auch nicht explodiert – und eine gelegentliche Detonation bringt einem 10 neue Detonationsflaggen ein. Ich benutze sie auch, um andere Flaggen abzusichern: Wenn man Drachenflagge, Wyvern und Zulu Hotel für Kapitäns-XP gesetzt hat, dazu noch Papa Papa und Orobous für mehr Free-XP und Equal Speed Charlie London für Schiffs-XP, dazu noch eine teure Tarnung wie Seele des Ozeans, dann will man einfach keine Detonation... Wirtschaftsflaggen Zulu Erhältlich für: Erstes Blut Wirkung: +20% Credits Für Leute, die ständig mit Premiumaccount fahren, eine eher unwichtige Flagge, für die ohne eine wichtige. Auch bei dieser gilt: der Einsatz rentiert sich besser, wenn man viele Credits bekommt, also auf High-Tiers und Premiums – oder auf den Schiffen, mit denen man regelmäßig gute Runden hinlegt, denn der Effekt hängt vor allem vom Gefechtsergebnis ab: Seid ihr gut, gibt es mehr Basis-Credits, also auch mehr durch die Flagge. India Bravo Terrathree Erhältlich für: Das ist nur ein Kratzer Wirkung: -10% Preis der Schiffswartung nach dem Gefechts Der Preis der Schiffswartung nach dem Gefecht ist ein fester Wert. Egal ob ihr beim ersten Treffer detoniert oder bis zuletzt überlebt, der Wert bleibt gleich und steigt von Stufe zu Stufe. Das macht sie zur Ausnahme bei den Wirtschaftsflaggen, denn bei alle anderen ist der Effekt von der individuellen Gefechtsleistung abhängig. Der Effekt von India Bravo Terrathree ist nach jedem Gefecht gleich, steigt aber von Stufe zu Stufe. Optimal eingesetzt ist sie daher eigentlich nur auf Tier10, sinnvoll wird der Einsatz ab dem Tier, auf dem man bei unterdurchschnittlichen Runden Defizite einfährt. Equal Speed Charlie London Erhältlich für: Kraken freigelassen Wirkung: +50% xp Eine sehr wertvolle und nützliche Flagge. Da Schiffs-XP auf Eliteschiffen und Premiums nichts nutzt, solange man sie nicht mit Dublonen (also Echtgeld) umwandelt, nutze ich diese Flagge nur zum Abkürzen langer oder lästiger Grinds. Wenn man so viel echtes Geld für WoWs ausgeben kann und will, dass man ständig xp umwandeln kann, mag sie auch auf Eliteschiffen und Premiumkähnen einsetzen, ich rate davon eher ab. Zulu Hotel Erhältlich für: Unterstützer Wirkung: +50% Kapitäns-xp Eine nützliche Flagge auf jedem Schiff. Besonders kann man auch die Umschulung von Kapitänen auf ein neues Schiff mit dieser Flagge beschleunigen. Auch bei dieser Flagge gilt: Sie bringt mehr, wenn man ein gutes Gefecht gemacht hat. Papa Papa Erhältlich für: Einzelkämpfer Wirkung: + 300% Freie XP Da freie xp überall einsetzbar ist, ist dieses eine der wertvollsten Flaggen. Da auch bei ihr die Größe des Effekts davon abhängig ist, wie gut das Gefecht lief, empfiehlt sich diese Flagge auf Schiffen, mit denen man wirklich gute Runden fährt, besonders im Hightier, wo die Basis-XP höher ausfallen. Die „großen“ Flaggen Diese Flaggen kann man nicht aus normalen Containern ziehen. Es gibt sie nur als Belohnungen, aus Super- oder Eventcontainern oder gelegentlich aus dem Premiumladen. Sie sind also relativ rar. Alle diese Signale sind Wirtschaftsflaggen mit gesteigerten und teilweise mit kombinierten Effekten. Wyvern Wirkung: +50 % im Gefecht verdiente Kredits Für diese Flagge gilt alles, was für die +20% Kreditflagge Zulu geschrieben wurde. Sie bringt einfach nur mehr. Roter Drache Wirkung: +100% Schiffs-XP und + 100% Kapitäns-XP Diese Flagge beschleunigt den Grind zum nächsten Schiff und verbessert zugleich den Kapitän. Es gilt das gleiche wie für Equal Speed Charlie London, nur ist diese Flagge weit besser, weil sie dem Kapitän nochmals zusätzlich verbessert. Drachenflagge Wirkung: +333% Kapitäns-XP Die ultimative Kapitänstrainingsflagge. Es gilt das gleiche wie für Zulu Hotel. Ouroboros Wirkung: +777% freie XP Die Flagge mit den vielen O ist die stärkere Version von Papa-Papa, auf die Ausführungen dort kann verwiesen werden. Hydra Wirkung: +250 % freie XP und + 150 % Kapitäns-XP und + 50 % Schiffs-XP Für diese Flagge gilt alles, zu den Flaggen geschrieben wurden, die die Ausbeute an Schiffs-XP verbessern. Die Royal Navy German Division hofft, dass der Guide für euch nützlich war.
  12. Guide: Des Moines | Croiseur US TX (Derniere MaJ le 25/03/2018) Bonjour, Je me suis lancé dans un petit guide pour ce croiseur, histoire de mettre a jour le precedent. Avec plus de 800 batailles avec, je transmet donc un peu de mon expérience avec ce navire qui est loin d'être le plus facile à jouer. Présentation: Avant toute chose, le Des Moines est un excellent navire. Cependant ce n'est pas le plus facile a maitriser. Quelle place ce navire a t'il parmi les autres croiseurs tiers 10? Pourquoi jouer Des Moines? Quels sont ses atouts et ses inconvénients, et surtout, comment faut il le jouer? Ce croiseur fait partie des navires dont tout le potentiel de degat est concentré au canon. On peut ainsi le considérer comme l'un des meilleurs spammeur d’HE du Jeu, et aussi le meilleur DPM a l’AP parmi les canons de 203mm. Un petit tableau pour comprendre où il se situe au niveau des DPM Ship Guns RoF AP Damage AP salvo AP DPM HE Damage HE Salvo HE DPM Fire Chance Fire/Salvo Fire/Min Des Moines (203mm) 9 10.9 5000 45000 490500 2800 25200 274680 14% (18*) 1.26 (1.62*) 13.734 (17.67*) Zao (203mm) 12 4.38 5400 64000 285120 3400 40800 179520 19% (23*) 2.28 (2.76*) 10.032 (12.087*) Hindenburg (203mm) 12 6 5900 70800 424800 2500 30000 180000 13% (17*) 1.56 (2.04*) 9.36 (12.24*) Moskva (220mm) 9 5.8 5800 52200 302760 3100 279000 161820 17% (21*) 1.53 (1.89*) 8.874 (10.962*) Minotaur(152mm AP) 10 18.75 3200 32000 600000 - - - - - - Henri IV (240mm) 9 4.88 6200 55800 272304 3400 30600 149328 22% (26*) 1.98 (2.34*) 9.864 (11.419*) Worcester (152mm) [WIP] 12 13.04 3200 38200 498261 2200 26400 344348 12% (15**) 1.44 (1.8**) 18.777 (23.472**) *Valeur avec Expert en Demolition + India X-Ray et Victor-Lima(+4%) Notez que les valeurs sont théoriques et servent avant tout de comparaison. ** (+3%) (calibre < 155mm) La difficulté majeure restera d’exploiter ce potentiel qui est assez impressionnant, et pour cela il faut le maitriser, et donc connaitre ses défauts et ses atouts. 1)Ses particularités: C’est un navire qui n’a pas de torpilles. A première vue, on penserait que c’est un défaut, mais il faut savoir que cette absence de torpille est compensée justement par l’artillerie principale a chargement automatique. En d’autres termes, il faut garder en tête que ce navire est fait pour se passer de torpille. Cela ne veut pas dire que vous aurez autant de burst qu'avec des torpilles au corps a corps, mais par exemple que certains duels ne dependent pas de coups a la torpilles sur l'ennemi, il n'est donc pas toujours necessaire de se rapprocher. Autre particularité : la balistique Le Des Moines a la particularité d'avoir une cloche d'obus assez importante. Cela permet de tirer au dessus des iles assez facilement, mais cela a bien sûre un impacte sur le temps de vol des obus qui est le seul et gros défaut de cette balistique, et c’est ce qui dégoute généralement certains. *A noter que les obus ont tout de même un temps de vol plus court que le Cleveland en tier 6, les obus de 203 étant plus lourd, ralentissant ainsi moins facilement en plein vol. Il fait biensure parti des croiseurs équipés d'un radar. 2)Ses défauts: Le blindage du navire est relativement simple: Les flancs de la citadelle sont a 152mm tout le reste de la coque est a 27mm, a l'exception du pont superieur qui est a 30mm. Cela signifie que les obus de calibres superieurs a 387mm peuvent vous infliger de gros degats assez facilement. Le Des Moines encaisse donc moins les obus de gros calibre que ses homologues en tier 10. Le temps de vol des obus est bien sûre le principal défauts du navires, et c'est d'ailleurs ce qui dégoutte certains de jouer ce navire. Le blindage et le temps de vol des obus sont peut etre les deux seuls et vrais defauts du navire, il n'en a que deux, mais ce sont des points important sur un croiseur et ce sont ces derniers qui le rendront difficile a maitriser. Ses points forts: Comme nous l'avons vu plus haut, le potentiel du Des Moines est concentré au canon, ce qui lui permet d'atteindre près de 275 000 de DPM en HE et 490 000 a l'AP, et cette cadence lui permet d'etre aussi le vice champion de l'incendie par minute! (Derriere le Worcester) -Un temps de rechargement de 5.5 secondes qui permet de changer très facilement de munitions. -La Maniablilité est assez bonne, on peut descendre le tempsde basculement du gouvernail a 6.9 secondes pour un rayon de giration de 770m. Pour un croiseur lourd, c'est plutot un bon point! -Une rotation de tourelle correcte et des angles tourelles excellents a 30° vers l'avant et l'arriere, ce qui donne aussi de l'ergonomie au navire. -Actuellement le meilleur radar du jeu avec une portée de 9.9km pour une durée de 40 secondes (contre 25 pour le Moskva). C'est un avantage considérable qui peut retourner facilement des parties. -Sa dissimulation peut descendre jusqu'a 10.6km, ce qui est assez bon a ce tier, chez les croiseurs lourd tiers 10 seul le Zao fait mieux (Et le Minotaur, qui est moins comparable). Cela permet de desengager assez facilement et le principal avantage de cette dissimulation est de ne laisser que 700m aux navires ennemis qui vous spottent, pour ne pas etre détectés par le radar. Autrement dit, si vous etes spottés sans voir le navire, vous avez 95% de chance de le spotter avec le radar! Ce radar, couplé a la cadence de tir lui permet ainsi d'etre l'un des meilleurs chasseur de DD (et de croiseurs britannique accessoirement) C'est aussi et surtout le meilleur dueliste contre les croiseurs. Avec de la maitrise le Des Moines ne laisse aucune chance aux croiseurs, que l'adversaire soit bon ou non. Rappelons aussi que le Des Moines possede l'une des AA les plus puissantes pour ne pas dire LA plus puissante: avec le consommable Anti aerien, son AA est capable de fairte pleuvoir les avions, meme TX. Nous avons donc un cauchemar pour les DDs et les CVs, redoutable contre les croiseurs et très puissant contre les cuirassés! La polyvalence estpour moi l'interet majeur de ce navire. Ameliorations et compétences: Le module qui sera décisif dans vos performances en jeu est le module numéro 3, (Les Modules coutant 3M crédits). Le reste c’est standard pour un croiseur . Je recommande le module de portée qui vous permettra de tirer a 18.4km. Ce module vous permettra d'engager avec plus de sécurité les cuirassés ennemis, et donc de rendre le potentiel du navire plus facilement exploitable. Cela permet aussi plus de libertée tactiques, on se sent ainsi moins limité par les capacités du navire. Le module de rechargement est peut etre une bonne alternative mais cela rend le navire plus situationnel et peut etre moins facile a prendre en main. D'autant plus que la portée du Des Moines (15.8) est théorique, car le temps de vol des obus va influencer celle-ci, notamment si l’ennemi est en fuite. Pour du Clan Battle, la portée est fortement conseillée Si vous disposez de l'amelioration spéciale "Radar de surveillance modification 1", cela permettra de prolonger le temps de radar de 16 secondes supplémentaires, soit d'atteindre 56 secondes. Un must en Clan Battles! Compétences que je recommande: L'AA étant déjà excellente, et vu que le nombre de CV hauts tier n’est pas énorme, un build full AA ne serait pertinent que si vous jouez régulièrement (voire meme exclusivement) en division avec un CV, sinon, gardez vos points pour autre chose. Si vous souhaitez un build intermediaire, avec suffisamment d'AA, AFT et l'amelioration de la portée AA (a 500 000 credits) suffisent: http://shipcomrade.com/captcalc/1000000000000010000001100000100119 (On se passe de Multitache et de 2 compétence 1 pour AFT). Notez que ce capitaine est excellent pour du Clan Battle En 1: -Maintenance Preventive car les tourelles sont votre seule source de dégâts, si vous les perdez, vous perdez directement votre DPM -Alerte de tirs en approche couplé a Cible Prioritaire car le Des Moines a une cadence de tir très élevée: En plus de savoir a quel point le DM est un navire focus, ces deux compétences vous permettrons de vous focaliser sur une cible que vous engagez, sans avoir forcément besoin de bouger la camera pour surveiller les navires ennemis. Pour un navire qui a une grande cadence de tir c'est très utile. En 2: -Multitache pour pouvoir utiliser les consommable plus rapidement, ce qui peut faire la différence. -Poussée d'adrenaline pour avoir plus de potentiel de degats. -Expert Tireur d'Elite pour pouvoir garder un focus plus facilement en mouvement, et a courte distance pour faire la difference. En 3: -Surrintendant Indispensable pour avoir une 4e equipe de reparation et si besoin un radar supplémentaire -Expert en Demolition pour transformer les BBs en BBQ (Plus de potentiel de degats egalement) En 4: -Expert en Dissimulation Indispensable pour descendre à 10.6 km -(AFT Si on se passe de Multitache, Maintenance preventive et Alerte de tirs en Approche) 5)Gameplay : conseils et astuces: Certains disent le jouer en collant les iles, d'autres en gameplay dynamique etc... Pour moi le Des Moines ne peut pas etre joué d'une seule façons pour etre efficace a 100%. Tirer derriere une ile est une possibilité, et non une obligation. Le Des Moines est tout aussi a l'aise en gameplay statique qu'en dynamique : Il faut adapter son gameplay en fonction de la carte, des navires en face et de la situation dans laquelle vous vous trouvez, ce qui est pour moi une des difficultés majeure du navire. Evitez d'aller sur les caps centrales où vous pourriez vous faire cross-fire (tirs venant de la droite et de la gauche). Gerer l'aggressivité est très important: trop près, vous allez prendre cher, trop loin vous serez moins efficace. L'deal est de faire un peu le yoyo: on se rapproche, on part en fuite pour reparer, et ainsi de suite. Voici donc quelques conseils et astuces qui pourraient vous guider. Lancement d'une partie: La partie commence dés le chargement: Identifiez les cuirassés ennemis en priorité, c'est généralement ces cuirassés qui seront votre plus grande menace. Puis le nombre de DD et leur type (torpilleurs, Gun Boat, Navires pouvant contester facilement des caps etc...). Il faut qu'une fois la partie chargée, vous sachiez a quoi vous attendre. Soyez ainsi très vigilent aux positions de ces cuirassés en debut de partie. Les cuirassés qui ne sont pas spottés sont souvent les cuirassés qui n'ont pas encore tiré. Si vous estimez ainsi que votre position n'est pas assez couverte par le relief de la carte, ne prenez pas le risque de prendre une position trop aggressive, au risque de se faire focus tous les cuirassés ennemis. Si vous etes assez proche en debut de partie, et que les couvertures des iles sont insuffisantes, n'engagez pas alors que votre navire est toujours en direction de l'ennemi, car vous serez forcé au bout d'un moment de faire un demi tour, qui pourra vous etre fatal. Il faut prendre en compte que vous etes le deuxieme croiseur le plus fragile des T10 en terme de blindage, et le plus dangereux pour les destroyers et les CVs. Le nombre d'ennemi qui vous vise peut donc augmenter très rapidement en debut de partie. Il faut prendre le temps de faire des engagements propres(toujours en debut de partie), dans une position avantageuse ( la fuite, ou bien la chasse si vous vous dirigez derriere une ile qui vous apportera suffisamment de couverture pour temporiser ou faire demi tour ou simplement vous couvrir pour utiliser le radar plus facilement).Attention: ne soyez pas trop optimistes sur des positions risquées en debut de partie. Si vous arrivez a utiliser votre radar dans les premieres minutes pour sortir ou ne serait-ce que gener un destroyer ennemi c'est une bonne chose. Mais ne tentez pas absoluement de sortir un destroyers, alors que la carte, la positions des navires ennemis et alliés ne s'y prete pas. Un Des Moines en vie est bien plus utile qu'un Des Moines mort dans les premieres minutes. La survie en debut de partie est importante. Cependant n'oubliez pas que vous avez 50 600PV et potentiellement4 equipes de reparations. Un croiseur n'est pas fait pour tanker, mais les PVs, comme sur tout navires vous servent aussi a prendre du risque. Perdre 20k en debut de partie(puis pouvoir reparer ensuite), et avoir éliminé un DD, c'est pas si mal. Il faut s'attendre a perdre des PVs. Votre maniabilité et votre dissimulation sont la clé de la survie, après le positionnement . Si vous savez exploiter ces deux atouts que le Des Moines possede, vous allez gagner en survivabilité. Il faut prendre le reflex de tenter d'esquiver chaques salves, qu'elle provienne d'un cuirassé, ou d'un autre navire. L'ideal etant de trouver le juste milieu ou plutot le meilleur rapport entre la perte de PV et les degats causés. Pour progresser a ce niveau la, je pense qu'il est plus interessant d'apprendre a survivre d'abord, pour se permettre ensuite de prendre plus de "libertés" en prenant des risques "calculés" (qui valent la peine) L'idée est de gagner en efficacité: savoir faire le maximum de degats lorsqu'on a un minimum de PV par exemple. Munitions: Penetrations AP: La courbe bleue correspond à la penetration sur une plaque de blindage perpendiculaire a l'obus. La courbe rouge correspont a la penetration sur une plaque de blindage vertical (equivalent a une ceinture blindée) Le choix des munitions est primordial avec le Des Moines: il ne faut pas surestimer les AP, ni les sous-estimer. Les Munitions AP dites "Super Heavy Shells" sont excellentes, la penetration est importante pour du 203mm, et la ballisitque permet de percer plus facilement les ponts des cuirassés a longue distance, qui sont moins blindés que les ceintures. Grace a cette balistique, la perte de penetration qui est deja importante se ressent moins que sur les autres croiseurs, et la trajectoire a portée max est si plongeante que l'on gagne en force de penetration (courbe bleue),comme vous pouvez aussi le constater ci-dessous Mais attention jouer un DM full AP n'est qu'une illusion, si vous avez un navire de face ou très bien anglé sortez les HE. Le Des Moines est un spammeur d'HE, avec d'excellentes AP et non l'inverse. L'AP doit etre chargée losrque vous etes sur de ne pas ricocher. Les obus AP sont excellents, mais ne sont pas non plus magiques. Vous avez cependant un meilleur ricochet que les concurents: 67.5° contre 60° pour les autres croiseurs TX, a l'exception du Minotaur qui est a 75°. Meme contre les croiseurs britanniques: Le 203mm n'overmatch pas le blindage de 16mm. Contre les destroyers: Ce navire est excellent pour chasser les DDs, cependant il ne faut pas croire le DM comme un navire exclusivement fait pour chasser les destroyers. Par exemple, aller chasser les destroyers dés le debut de partie est très risqué et cela doit se faire avec beaucoup de prudence, peu de map permettent de faire cela, autrement vous risquez de vous faire focus très facilement, d'autant plus que le Des Moines est un navire qui se fait un peu plus focus que les autres, justement pour le danger qu'il represente contre les portes-avions et les destroyers ennemis. N'allez donc pas toujours prendre du risque en debut de partie, ce qui vous couterait une bonne partie des PV, et en début de partie c'est assez embettant. Soyez egalement sur de vous lorsque vous lancez un radar, il ne faut pas que l'ennemi en face puisse sortir facilement de la portée du radar. Et notez qu'un radar qui n'est pas forcement utile pour vous peut l'etre bien plus pour votre equipe. Contres les croiseurs: Vous etes potentielement les plus redoutable en duel de croiseur, mais ne vous sentez pas non plus invincible, certaines situations peuvent etre désavantageuses. N'oubliez pas que vos obus sont relativement lents par rapport aux autres croiseurs (sauf Minotaur). Evitez donc les engagements sur des croiseurs en fuite a plus de 12km sauf si ces derniers sont très bas en PV. L'idéal est d'engager le plus proche possible, un ennemi qui se dirige vers vous: Si vous l'engagez par exemple en dessous de 10,6km et qu'il est position de chasse, son demi tour sera fatal pour lui, et si il se rapproche, vous l'aurez surement détruit avant qu'il puisse lancer ses torpilles. -Si le croiseur ennemi a des torpilles et qu'il se dirige vers vous privilegiez un engagement en position de fuite en sans forcément vous éloigner, (evitez par contre de faire demi tour alorss que vous etes spottés, saufg si le ou les ennemis ne vous visent pas) l'idée est de rester hors de portée des torpilles. Si vous n'etes pas encore spotté ou qu'il ne vous vise pas, faites donc demi tour pour vous positionner (en fuite). Notez que vous avez une meilleure maniabilité que la plupart des croiseurs Tier 10, cela fiat souvent la différence en corps a corps. Vous pouvez donc très bien battre un croiseur en allant au corps a corps(la méthode violente^^), mais il faut de la technique de façon a rendre le torpillage par l'ennemi très difficile (le forcer a montrer son flanc pour qu'il largue ses torpilles, et a ce moment la, vous lui collez des AP dans la citadelle.). Cette 2e option est tout de meme risquée et demande une bonne maitrise du navire. Il faut savoir aussi gagner au maximum du temps avant que l'ennemi n'essaye de torpiller (pour justement lui faire perdre un maximum de PV). Pour en revenir sur la partie sur les munitions, si l'ennemi s'angle trop, cherchez surtout a le cramer au maximum, mieux vaut securiser les degats avec de l'HE plutot que risquer de faire ricocher toute une salve. Il m'est arrivé plusieurs fois de gagner des duels contre des croiseurs qui avaient bien plus de PV que moi, juste parce qu'ils tiraient a l'AP, alors que j'etais trop anglé. Vous pouvez cependant charger les AP meme par incertitude a partir de 4-5km, histoire de faire comprendre a l'ennemi que s'il essaye de se mettre de flanc, prendra quelques citadelles. Quand vous vous retrouvez en Duel contre un Des Moines, c'est celui qui a le plus de technique qui gagne. Si vous vous trouvez dans cette situation et que le Des Moines ennemi n'est pas en fuite, cherchez a lui foncer dessus, surtout si vous avez moins de PV: Si il est en marche arriere il devra se priver de sa tourelle arriere, dans le cas contraire il se prendra de lourds degats a l'AP. Le principe va etre de jouer avec les munitions de l'ennemi pendant que vous le cramez: Si il tire a l'AP restez anglé voir de face pour diminuer la surface exposée; si il tire de l'HE mettez vous legerement de flanc, vous pourez ainsi utiliser votre 3e tourelle et avoir le dessus en DPM HE, et cela donen une chance qu'il repasse a l'AP, a ce moment la il vous suffira d'un angle inferieur a 30° pour gacher sa salve. C'est ainsi que vous pourrez battre certains joueurs en Des Moines, meme avec moins de PV. Contre les cuirassés: Commencez toujours par engager un BB ennemi a l'HE, sauf si il est a +/- 15k PV, et suffisamment de flanc pour se prendre des claques a l'AP. Allumez ainsi 2 incendies dans l'idéal puis spammez les APs si il est de flanc ou passez sur un autre cuirassé si vous en avez la possibilité, l'objectif est d'avoir le plus d'incendie en même temps sur plusieurs navires. *a noter que si vous voyez le cuirassé réparer ses incendies, chargez les 2 voir 3 prochaines salves a l'AP(sauf si trop anglé) ou bien changez de cible, étant donné que de toutes façons, allumer un incendie sera impossible pendant l'action de l'équipe de contrôle des avaries. -Si vous engagez un cuirassé dangereux (ex: un BB T10) n'adoptez surtout pas un gameplay statique si il peut vous tirer dessus, il ne se joue pas comme un cuirassé face a des BBs ayant du 406 et plus, rappelons que le Des Moines peut prendre de lours degats, meme anglé, contre les canons de 406+. Gardez donc une mobilité maximale et évitez les obus tant que possible. Restez dans l'ideal a plus de 12-14km si vous l'engagez en kiting (gameplay dynamique en fuite). N'hésitez pas a désengager un combat pour reparer, ou pour se repositionner si vous sentez que vous perdez l'avantage. -Si vous trouvez un Tirpitz/Bismarck isolé, considérez-le comme des AP de croiseurs,restez anglé et appréciez ainsi le blindage de proue du Des Moines qui fera ricocher les obus de 380. Le Des Moines peut ainsi battre facilement ces 2 cuirassés en 1 vs. 1. Vous pouvez donc jouer aggressif contre ces 2 cuirassés. Bien sûre si il a des alliés qui le supportent restez a distance, l'amélioration de portée prend ainsi toute son importance. -Si vous etes assez proche d'un cuirassé ennemi qui n'est pas suffisamment anglé, sortez l'AP et visez en priorité la proue et la poupe du navire(sections avant et arriere généralement a 32mm de blindage), car generalement la citadelle n'est pas penetrable sauf a très courte distance. Ces parties auxiliaires du navire vous assureront des penetrations standards facilement ,sans avoir a se demander si on perce ou non. Cependant si le cuirassé est trop anglé, vous avez des chances ricocher, vous pouvez donc aussi tirer de l'HE dans ces parties. Si les degats diminuent sur ces parties, c'est que que ces zones commencent a etre saturés en degats, visez alors au dessus de la ceinture blindée. Exemple d'un tir dans la section arriere *Les HE ont une pénétration de 33mm. *Le Des Moines est en mesure mettre des citadelles a un Yamato : au plus loin a 2km, parfaitement de flanc. Ce dont il est capable: En résumé, c'est un croiseur qui peut faire presque tout faire, mais qui demande beaucoup de technique. Comparé a un Moskva il offre plus de potentiel, que ce soit dans le temps de radar, l'anti aerien, les canons, la maniabilité et la discretion, mais son efficacité moins bonne a longue distance le rend plus difficile a jouer, car il faut s'exposer a plus de risques, et gérer l'agressivité n'est pas toujours facile. Entre de bonnes mains ce croiseur ne laisse aucune chance a un destroyer ou un croiseur ennemi, c'est donc pour cela que l'on peut le considerer comme l'un des meilleurs croiseurs du jeu. En Clan battle il est presque indispensable compte tenu de son efficacité contre les croiseurs et de son radar. C'est donc un navire qui peut etre très dangereux, et qu'il ne faut pas sous-estimer. Bon courage et bonne chance avec le Des Moines!
  13. Z_OnkelE

    OnkelE's Gunboat Destroyer Guide

    WIP NOTE: This guide is currently (starting October 2018) under a rework to reflect changes in core mechanics and also include new lines of gunboat destroyers. 0.1.:Table of content 0. Preface 0.1. Table of content 0.2. General remarks 0.3. Abbreviations 1. Chapter: What is a gunboat destroyer? 1.1. Which destroyers count as gunboats? 1.2. US Navy 1.2. Russian Navy 1.3. Pan Asia 1.4. Poland 1.5. Royal Navy 1.6. Imperial Japanese Navy 1.7. Kriegsmarine 2. Chapter: Gameplay (part 1) 2.1. General tactics 2.2. The defensive part 2.3. The offensive part 2.4. Your role in the battle 2. Chapter: Gameplay (part 2) 2.5. Additional tips 2.6. A word or two on captain skills 2.7. Please, sir, I want some more. 3. Chapter: Supplement 0.2.: General remarks All ships listed below are denoted with their associated tier number. Premium ships are indicated be a *. In the list of ship characteristics all numbers are given without modules or camouflage, except premium ships which are assumed to be modified by their special camouflage. In most cases the ships are considered to be in their top hull configuration with all upgrades. In many cases the torpedo armament will not be discussed in detail because for several ships listed below they can be regarded as secondary armament type. If they can be used from concealment there will be an according remark. 0.3.: Abbreviations AFT - Advanced Firing Training BFT - Basic Firing Training CE - Concealment Expert DE - Demolition Expert EM - Expert Marksman AA - Anti Air AP - Armour Piercing (shell) HE - High Explosive (shell) APmod - Artillery Plotting Room Modification 2 CSmod - Concealment System Modification 1 MBmod - Main Battery Modification 3 SGmod - Steering Gears Modification 2
  14. Introduction Hello! I decided to make this guide because I see a lot of Battleships doing things I would not recommend doing, and since I see myself as a fairly good Battleship driver I wanted to share my "knowledge" about this ship class. I'm not, by all means, saying that I know everything and that my guide is the only one you should follow, for there are many playstyles suited for a BB, I'm just here to share you my savoir faire. If my English is bad at any point in this guide I blame it on the fact that English isn't my native language, I will try to limit the mistakes but I can't promise anything. While low tier (tier 3-5) gameplay in Battleships is also an important topic I will adress the higher tiers (tier 8-10), since low tier games can be quite chaotic and low to mid tier BBs play quite differently I will MAYBE cover this in a later guide. This guide will mostly talk about positioning and will end with a small piece about priority targets Team dependent positioning Positioning in battleships is one of the most valuable skills you can learn, a BB is generally too slow to get out of bad positions quickly which will more often then not leave you on low health or in the worst case with a lifeboat with your unfortunate crew. Whenever you see a Battleship typing A B or B C in chat, this isn't just some small chitchat at the start of the game but a quite decisive factor to their game. Have you ever seen BBs raging that "We said B C and you went A" in chat? If you did, you might have seen one of the biggest fears happen a BB player can have, their team not taking in consideration the pain BBs are in when they need to forcibly reposition. Granted the BB player should've still looked at what his team is doing which brings us to the first point in the subject of positioniong: "Your team" Battleships are extremely team dependent, which means a BB player should look at his/her team the entire time. A BB player should always try to keep friendly destroyers near so he/she can support them in the dangerous endeavour of capping points and generally warding off the enemy team. Having DDs close to you also gives the advantage that they will spot Torpedoes that are outside of your own spotting range. Of course this benefit is mutual since you can ward your DDs from those pesky radar cruisers who will try to hunt down your little friends. Cruiser cover is also quite important for Battleships, their defensive AA is extremely valuable for dealing with aircraft and hydro or radar is very valuable to deal with enemy destroyers. It is quite tricky to work well with Cruisers tho, BBs tend to attract a lot of fire and if a cruiser pops up right next to them, the fire will almost all the time switch to them and if your escort was a bit to close to you, during evasive manoeuvres it might not end well for the both of you. BBs and cruisers should keep their distance but not to much so when the situation changes, f.e. a butload of planes coming towards the BB, the cruiser can close the distance and support the BB. For playing with CVs I would say that that's more up to the CV, who should at all time try to keep the team between himself and the enemy. Positioning on the map As for actually placing your ship on the map, always try to position yourself so you can cover at least 2 caps (for domination) for standard battles its a bit harder for BBs to decide where to go, just try to support your DDs as well as possible is generally the best decision to make. If you are playing a Destroyer, keep in mind that your BBs are not as fast as you, also try not to split up to A and C because this will result in your BBs having to either split their firepower or not support you at all. What I generally like to do is put myself in between 2 different caps or at a cap which will definetely see a lot of action (very often a B point) I will always try to place my battleship next to cover so only one side of my ship is exposed to fire, it is not adviced to go in the open and open up all routs off attack to your ship, be aware for rushing destroyers tho since they tend to see you as a nice meal when you get to close. It's quite self-evident that you don't snipe since a part of your role as BB is deterent and tanking damage, from long range this is very hard. There is no shame in driving backwards, if you keep your position while 2 Tirpitzes and a Gneisenau are charging you, you will only end up dead, while you can at least kite the for a while whilst driving backwards, letting your team have more time to shoot at them too. KNOW YOUR TIME: I've sinned against this a couple of times since I tend to play quite agressively but knowing when to advance is very important, I tend to go uber agressive when all enemy DDs have been sunk but that can get you in sticky situations nonetheless. Try to follow your team, especially destroyers, unless they are clearly making a mistake (when the entire enemy team is in that location and your dds just want to throw their life away f.e.) When enemy cruisers start kiting you, try to disengage, cruisers are very good at kiting Battleships and you only do them a favour trying to catch up to them. If they start following you it will be easier to hit them with your main battery since they have less time to avoid your shells. When your team is decisively winning you can go on the pursuit (and maybe tank some more damage for more experience =D ) KNOW YOUR SHIP: Some BBs are more fit to go agressive than others, Tirpitz for example has turtleback armour* and torpedoes + a very decent suit of secondaries so it is great for going agressive unlike ships like Izumo that turn like a brick and have a very big and easy to penetrate citadel. * : Turtleback armour is a citadel shape that is in the game which severely limits the possibilities of getting citadelled. Most German BBs have this citadel shape en most high tier German cruisers do too. Some specific tips An incredibly important tip for North: There is almost no situation that calls for BBs to go to the D point, you can't support anything except for D and it will take you ages to get around those mountains, I generally report every single BB that does that because this will handicap your team immensely. FOR YAMATOS: try to avoind getting in a brawling situation, your second gun turret can't aim down enough to hit anything under 5km when you are bow on. To add to this Yamato has severely fallen behind in the BB meta, for a general rule, when you can shoot your nr.3 turret you are over angeling your armour, showing a very easy citadel (citadel just in front and below turret 1) FOR KURFURST: It doesn't matter that you can't get citadelled so easily that you should forget how to angle. You will still eat tons of damage when you give your broadside to the enemy! Try to resist the urge of shooting all your turrets, your turrets are not in a good position and you will have to give a lot of broadside to use all of them. Try to forsake secondary build, I know it's fun to dakadaka but a survivability/stealth build suits the ship a lot better. FOR MONTANA: In my opinion the best BB at tier X and generally a joy to play. Your guns have great angles so you dont need to show a lot of side to use all of them, just keep in mind that when turning or giving full broadside, your hard to hit citadel becomes not hard to hit at all. Personally I like an AA/Stealth build but it performs just as fine (perhaps even better) with a survivability/Stealth build. I don't know how Republique plays so I can't comment on that, and I won't review conqueror because IMO that ship is not a BB. Consumable use Personally I like using spotter planes on my tier 8+ BBs because it helps with shooting over islands and is a huge aid for firing into smokescreens. You can very easily identify the position of a Minotaur from the semi-birdseyeview. Take premium consumables, not using premium consumables is one of the significant symptoms of noobism, a very grave dissease. A premium consumable can save your ship in multiple occasions thanks to the shorter "Cooldown" times they have. (and numbered consumables get +1 charge if you take the premium version, meaning extra medkits, yay!) Don't forget that you CAN buy these for in-game credits, they are relatively cheap and are very easily earned back. On top of this, don't forget to use your consumables, immediately symptom 2 of noobism, a medkit not used at the end of the game is basically wasted, and you definitely want to avoid sinking before you've used every single last one of them. Try to remember to pop your plane just before you die (if you can) the extra spotting it provides can save a teammate!. Consumables cost money if you use them or not, not using them would be idiotic. One last tip for this point, whenever I pop my repair party I wait untill I'm sure I can repair for the full duration, so you get the most ammount of HP out of each repair party, when you are on low HP I would advise not to wait that much, at high tiers even HE salvos can do a ridiculous amount of damage. Priority Targets To finish of this guide I will try to talk a bit about priority targets. -Whenever you get the opportunity to, shoot destroyers, this class is the hard counter of Battleships and it will help your team's chances of winning the game since DDs often decide who wins or loses a game. -Radar cruisers should also be a top priority, they pose a significant threat to your destroyer buddies. If you don't know by heart what cruisers come equiped with radar, learn the list, it's not that big and it will help your team a lot: Atlanta, Belfast, Indianapolis, Chapayev, New Orleans, Dimitry Donskoi, Baltimore, Moskva, Des Moines, MISSOURI, BLACK, HSIENYANG, CHUNG MU, YUEYANG, Edinburgh, Neptune, Minotaur. (these 3 last ones are quite fun to shoot at with battleships *evil laughter*) -If you don't see any of these ships, go for broadsiding targets but dont hold your fire too long if they are hesitant on showing their sides, you might get a penetration through the deck armour! Outro I will propably edit this guide if some new thoughts come to mind! If you have feedback you can always leave it in the comments! Have a nice day! Kathy. Guides to specific ships - How to play Yamato - How to play Montana - How to play Großer Kurfürst Edit: Added some points in specific tips. and a new point called "Consumable use"
  15. Voici un guide qui vous présente chaque classe de navires avec leur bonus/malus ! Bonne vidéos a tous .
  16. Bonjour, Ceci n'est pas mon travail mais la traduction d'un guide réalisé par Shanara (vous trouverez l'original ici) Je me suis contenté d'en faire la traduction donc si vous pouviez remercier l'auteur originel.... Je l'ai traduit car étant complètement novice dans ce type de navire je cherchais quelque chose qui puisse m'indiquer les bases. J'ai trouvé ce guide bien fait (et surtout le seul dispo dans une langue que je maitrise). Si vous pouviez rajouter vos propres conseils et commentaires je tacherais de les intégrer en fonction du retour de la communauté. Attention : Les attaques manuelles ne sont plus disponibles avant le Tier 6 Bonne lecture
  17. Introduction Hello! This is my third guide in my "how to" series. Links to my other guides: -> How to play Großer Kurfürst -> General guide on how to play Battleships -> How to play Yamato Today I'd like to take a moment to share my experiences and tips on how to play my favourite tier X battleship: Montana. I'm making this guide with some tips from my clanmates from |OP|. Captain's Skillbuild Montana is a very versatile Battleship compared to Yamato and Großer Kurfürst and that gets reflected in the numerous skillbuilds you can take for your captain. While it is versatile I would like to say that certain skillbuilds are definitely better for randoms and less so for clanbattles and/or ranked. Skillbuild 1: AA A skillbuild I would almost exclusively use in random battles because of its niche. This build is very good to use when platooning up with Aircraft Carriers as it's AA damage per second can get quite absurd (for a Battleship) Although this is an AA spec I would like to adres some of my choices here. I did opt to pick Concealment Expert because this skill is a must in almost every Battleship if you want to have a tool to disengage (not fleeing, disengaging) When you have been under sustained HE fire from enemy cruisers it is always nice to have the option to stop firing for a while to get undetected, and while being undetected you can heal up. Very often new battleship drivers keep unloading,even on low HP and thus throwing their ship (and remaining heals) overboard by getting sunk. This choice does limit your other choices because it costs 4 points to take. Forcing me to drop Basic Firing Training(BFT) which gives you a 20% AA dps buff. The AA range upgrade you get from Advanced Firing Training works better with Manual Fire Control for AA Armament than BFT does. Super intendent is another one of those skills which you can't go without on Battleships. The remaining points I spent into Direction Center and Preventive maintenance. The first skill gives your AA and Main batteries more sustainability and the second skill gives you an extra plane to spot torpedoes with. Expert Marksman is something I put on all my ships because I like to manoeuvre quite a lot, EM will allow your guns to be trained on target faster. Skillbuild 2: Endurance build This build is a build I'd recommend for ranked play and solo-randoms. It's a build that will greatly improve your survivability and thus also will increase your damage (in most cases) This build shows some similarities with skillbuild 1 namely Preventive Maintenance, Expert Marksman, Superintendent and Concealment Expert. These skills are in my opinion all a must have although Preventive Maintenance could be switched out for something else because it is the least important one on that list. Basics of Survivability and Fire Prevention together with Concealment Expert will work to limit damage taken by High Explosive shells and especially the fires resulting from it. While Adrenaline Rush will help you to increase your damage output even when your ship gets damaged. Ship Upgrades Slot 1 Slot 2 Slot 3 Or for AA Slot 4 Or for Manoeuvrability (Which I prefer) Slot 5 Slot 6 Or for DPS A lot of these Upgrades are up to personal preference. For example in Slot 6 I prefer Artillery Plotting Room because it makes Montana surprisingly accurate. And in my opinion the Main Battery Mod 3 slows down your turrets a bit too much. But the decision is up to you, my play style is a bit too aggressive to slow down my turrets. General Playstyle Montana is a Battleship which can be played a lot more aggressive than it's tier 9 predecessor the Iowa. It shares the same slow shell velocity but gains an extra turret. The slow shell velocity means that you will need to lead your targets more and although you would think a slow shell velocity is bad, it does have its perks. Your shells dip a lot faster making it easier to hit the citadels of some cruisers and your super heavy American Armour Piercing shells do a lot of damage even when you don't hit the citadel. An added effect of your slow shells is that hitting ships behind islands is easier since the shell arc is quite high. Your great firing angles allow you to use all your 12 406 millimeter guns without having to show a lot of your broadside, giving you an advantage when pushing in to some other Battleships. And your great accuracy (especially with Artillery Plotting Room 2) will make cruisers wish they didn't risk giving you their broadside. Montana is fairly resilient but don't get fooled! You have great armour and it is generally hard to citadel a Montana but when you give broadside it gets a lot easier to get citadelled, especially when you are in a turn. But don't get fooled! You have great armour and it is generally hard to citadel a Montana but when you give broadside it gets a lot easier to get citadelled, especially when you are in a turn. On the AA, even when you are using the Endurance built I described earlier, your AA is still very powerful and you will notice that Aircraft Carriers tend to avoid your AA. When they finally notice you are not running an AA heavy spec it might happen that they will come after you anyway, although they will still lose quite a lot of planes it will definitely make it a lot harder to survive. Again, it depends on your own preference what skill build you run, just keep in mind to stay a lot closer to your friendly neighbourhood AA cruiser when you pick the endurance build over the AA build. You have great stealth so getting close to caps and suddenly surprising enemy cruisers who flash you their belly is quite funny (well it's funny for you at least) Other than that just try to keep your destroyers safe, a living DD between you and the enemy is valuable because they are one of your only ways of knowing where the enemy DDs and/or torps are. Since you don't have hydro-acoustic search like the Großer Kurfürst that means keeping your DD safe is even more important for Montana. Don't hesitate to shoot enemy DDs either, your slow shells+ big volume of accurate shells will cause massive damage to Destroyers if they get unlucky. In short: Don't give broadside, when you are running an endurance build and there's a cv stick close to AA cruisers and whine that you are not running a AA build, use your great stealth to go closer to caps than a GK would and provide support for your Destroyers. Outro As all my other guides I will try to keep updating these, if you have any points you would like to see added, please do leave them in the comments. Have a nice day! Kathy.
  18. Bonjour à tous! Je fais ce court post simplement pour vous signaler une nouvelle VOD dans laquelle Malimo0 et moi-même vous livrons nos recommandations (navires, builds etc...) pour cette saison 9 des batailles classées! J'avoue que le post sur le forum est peut-être superflu, sachant que la plupart des personnes ici n'ont plus besoin de conseils de ce type depuis longtemps, mais pour tous les nouveaux loups de mers, je pense que ça vaut le coup! Bonne chance sur les mers, capitaines! Ci-dessous le lien de la vidéo:
  19. Farazelleth

    Fara Carrier Guide

    Hello everyone, quick overview of who I' am! The name is Fara (Farazelleth in game) and I've played Aircraft Carriers since the beta of World of Warships. I play for the OMNI fleet in competitive games and also play solo in Ranked seasons getting World top 2 ~ 20 depending on season (based on winrate). I've decided to make a comprehensive carrier guide in the form of YouTube Lectures. As and when time permits I will add link annotations to YouTube & Twitch video replays explaining in visual detail to what I'm attempting to explain in lecture format. The intention is to create episode videos on YouTube covering each major topic based upon my experience as a CV main player. The guide is quite extensive so In order to create a structured format I've created a list as you can see below. YouTube videos will be added to this thread over time, each video Episode title links directly to the list below. So for example Episode 1 will cover everything within 1. bullet points below and so on. Additionally the list below will have hyperlinks embedded allowing readers to click on material directly as it becomes available. The explain it like I’m 5 guide to playing an aircraft carrier. 1.1 What is a Carrier? 1.1.1 Different plane types 1.1.1.1 Fighters 1.1.1.2 Dive Bombers 1.1.1.3 Torpedo Bombers 1.2 Difference between USN and IJN 1.2.1 IJN 1.2.1.1 More plane waves, fewer planes 1.2.1.2 Cross dropping 1.2.1.3 Greater map presence 1.2.1.4 Faster plane turnaround 1.2.1.5 Wave Loading times 1.2.2. USN 1.2.2.1 Fewer waves, more planes 1.2.2.2 Limited Flight Controls options 1.2.2.3 Wave Loading times 1.2.3 Which Nation to pick & play styles 1.3 You and your Carrier 1.3.1 How many enemy Carriers will you face? 1.3.2 What is expected from you? 1.3.3 What tier of enemy ships can you expect? 1.3.3.1 Matchmaking 1.4. The User Interface & controls 1.4.1 Remapping control keys 1.4.2 Alternative battle interface 1.4.3 Alternative mouse controls 1.4.4 Shortcuts 1.4.5 Ship & Plane waypoints 1.4.6 The Minimap 1.5 ‘Alt’ attack mode 1.5.1 Fighter strafes 1.5.2 Manual bombing 1.5.2.1 Differences between IJN & USN 1.6 Ship AA (Anti-Aircraft) fire 1.6.1 How does it really work?! 1.6.2 Manual Fire Anti-Aircraft Focus 1.6.3 Calculating real AA numbers 1.6.4 Which ships have high AA and are dangerous? 1.6.5 Estimating range of your planes to enemy Ships 1.7 Defensive Fire and you 1.7.1 What does it do and how long does it last 1.7.1.1 Cruisers and Destroyers 1.7.1.2 Aircraft carriers 1.8 Playing Tier 4 & 5 Carriers 1.8.1 Abuse of Border 1.9 Playing Tier 6+ Carriers 1.10 Playing in Divisions 2.1 Skill breakdown 2.1.1 The don’t pick me skills 2.1.2 Dogfighting & Scouts 2.2 Build templates 2.2.1 11, 15, 19 point builds 2.3 Tradeoffs 3.1 Flight Control selection 3.1.1 Strengths & Weaknesses 3.1.1.1 Number of waves 3.1.1.2 Exact plane count per type 3.1.2 Playstyle 3.2 Module Upgrades 3.2.1 Consumables 3.3 Ship Exterior 3.3.1 Camouflage 3.3.2 Signals 3.3.3 Flags 3.4 Recommended Commander Skill builds 4.1 General ship maneuvers, aka where to move 4.1.1 What Map 4.1.2 Enemy ship classes & tiers 4.2 Situational Awareness 4.2.1 Use the Minimap 4.2.2 Plane or Ship detected! 4.2.3 Plane location 4.2.3.1 Danger of AA 4.2.2.2 Spotting 4.2.3.3 Flight paths 4.2.4 Ship position & terrain 4.2.4.1 Can you been shot? Can you be bombed? 4.3 Manage the Map 4.3.1 Two different top-down zoom modes 4.3.1.1 Close in for bombing? 4.3.1.2 Further out for grand picture? 4.3.2 Reading the map to decide what to do, where to go 4.4 Communication 4.4.1 Battle situation 4.4.1.1 Not everyone has the same grand overview as you 4.4.2 Expressing your intentions to friendly team 4.4.3 Offering support 4.4.4 Dealing with unrealistic expectations of non-cv players 4.5 What to do first?! 4.5.1 Scout, strike or escort 5.1 Launch order 5.1.1 Wave ready times 5.1.2 RMC - Cancel Plane takeoff sequence 5.2 Scouting 5.2.1 Which planes to use? 5.2.2 Advantage of speed boosted bombers 5.3 Fighter micro 5.3.1 When to fight & when to run 5.3.2 Sight Denial 5.3.3 Importance of friendly and hostile AA 5.3.4 When to strafe 5.3.4.1 Ammo usage 5.3.5 When to exit strafe 5.3.5.1 Ammo usage, inability to exit with no ammo 5.3.5.2 The Saipan exception 5.3.6 Protect your bombers or friendly Fleet? 5.4 Target Selection 5.4.1 Who to bomb and why 5.4.1.1 Lone Wolf, high priority target or other etc 5.4.2 When to exercise patience 5.5 Bombing 5.5.1 Auto & Manual bombing 5.5.2 Strike Group Management 5.5.3 Target approach 5.5.4 Knowing when not to bomb! 5.5.5 How to extradite planes form bomb area 6. Advanced Tactics 6.1 6.1.1 Unavoidable strikes (Ultra close range TBs) 6.1.2 Approach from behind enemy player Camera 6.1.2.1 If ship is firing to Port, approach from Starboard 6.1.2.1.1 Reduces enemy players reaction time 6.1.3 6.1.3.1 Evading cross drops! 6.1.4 6.1.5 Forcing a ship turn 6.1.5.1 First TB wave forces turn, sets ship on predictable path allowing more connections from 2nd/3rd TB waves. Useful on highly maneuverable ships (CLs) 6.1.5.2 Can also force enemy ship to expose broadside to friendly ships 6.1.6 6.1.7 Damage over time stacking 6.1.7.1 Baiting Damage control party 6.1.7.2 Reapplying flooding & fires 6.1.8 Catapult Fighter Baiting 6.1.9 6.2 6.2.1 Dive bombers can destroy Light/Medium AA mounts 6.2.1.1 Send DBs first before TBs on heavy AA targets 6.2.2 Target ships subject to heavy HE spam will have reduced AA 6.3 6.3.1 Team support 6.3.1.1 Sight Denial 6.3.1.2 Preventing fighter locks and bomber attacks 6.3.2 Lures, baits & strafes 6.3.2.1 Strafe missed strafes 6.3.2.2 6.3.2.3 6.3.3 Advanced Exit strafes 6.3.3.1 6.3.3.2 Exiting incoming enemy strafes if your planes are tagged 6.3.3.3 6.3.3.4 Strafe enemy fighters who exit strafe immediately 6.3.4 6.4 6.4.1 Who to spot 6.4.2 How long do you spot for 6.4.3 Spotting for torpedoes 6.5 6.5.1 Land first, or take off? 6.5.1.1 Plane takeoff time dependent on wave size 6.5.1.2 Two Plane landing at a time 6.6 6.6.7 Surviving a Carrier Snipe 6.7 6.7.1 Are you USN Strike? 6.8.1.1 Split bombers & use friendly AA 6.7.2 Are you balanced IJN setup? 6.7.2.1 Split enemy fighters with bomber scouts 6.7.2.1.1 Isolate and destroy if possible 6.8 6.9.1 Patience 6.9.2 Realistic expectations 6.9.3 Scouting 6.9.4 End game bombing 6.9 6.9.1 Map awareness 6.9.2 Ship positioning 6.9.3 Team support 6.9.4 Survive 6.9.5 Desperate plays 6.9.6 Acceptance, go into next game. Try not to flame! 7.1 Ship Setup differences 7.2 Commander differences 7.3 Expectations within battle 7.4 Importance of communication 7.4.1 Fighter & friendly AA co-operation 7.4.1.1 Stealth AA DD etc 7.4.1.2 Baiting planes closer into hidden AA traps 7.5 The hard carry 7.5.1 Warning loud audio at 16min 50sec
  20. Welcome to the new captain skills guide for 0.6.0 As usual, a disclaimer and some general information first: A) your mileage may vary as skill choices can depend on your playstyle. These distributions are merely recommendations and not the ultimate choice to beat all others.B) Apart from the Light Cruisers, these distributions assume you keep moving your captain along to the next ship until you reach T10.C) Captain skills in bold are those I recommend the most. Information about skills and general game mechanics: HE penetration is the gun caliber divided by 6, except for German BB main guns and 128/150mm BB secondary guns, for which it is caliber divided by 4. HE penetration is rounded up or down to the nearest value. HE penetration is the same at any angle and range and has to be above the thickness of the armor to penetrate. The Donskoi with exactly 30mm of HE penetration cannot penetrate 30mm plates. If a HE shell dealt no damage, it has either failed to penetrate, hit a module or the torpedo belt. AP shells overmatch (ignore angle and ricochet mechanics) if their caliber is at least 14,3 times bigger than the thickness of the armor they try to penetrate. Auto-ricochet angle is 60° for all ships except high-tier US cruisers (67,5°) and British non-premium cruisers (~75°). Technically these are 6° to 10° higher for each ship as shell normalization is applied before checking if the shell bounces. "Expert Loader" only works if all gun barrels are currently loaded, not including those that are destroyed. "Incoming Fire Alert" only warns you of incoming shells that have to travel for at least 6 seconds to arrive. For the skill "Preventive Maintenance", these are ship parts that count as modules: Main guns, torpedo tubes, propulsion, steering. (Thanks to shamelesscreature for the info) "Survivability Expert" increases flooding and fire damage, which deal a certain percent of your total HP each second. Basic Firing Training and Advanced Firing Training apply to ALL secondary armaments regardless of caliber, even the 155mm on ships such as the Yamato. The 139mm limit only applies to primary guns. The 100% damage bonus for Manual Control of the AA guns multiplies with the defensive AA barrage. This makes the skill especially useful for cruisers, assuming they got enough 85+ mm AA guns to make the investment worthwhile. Torpedo Acceleration increases the arming distance for CV-dropped torpedoes. The 10% fire reduction of Fire Prevention is multiplicative. If a shell has a 20% chance to set you on fire, the chance will be reduced to 18% should you have the skill. In reality the reduction is even lower since there are other factors further reducing fire chance, such as natural fire resistance. Please do not use IFHE on any ships with a caliber of 203mm or above. DE and IFHE also affect secondaries. Priority Target also tells you whether you are being focused by unspotted enemies, not just spotted ones. Builds for specific ships are mentioned at the bottom of the guide. If a ship you would like a build for is not listed, feel free to ask. Battleships Light cruisers (not including British AP cruisers) British AP Cruisers: Heavy Cruisers: Japanese and German Destroyers (excluding Akizuki): US Destroyers: Russian Destroyers: Aircraft Carriers: Akizuki Gremyashchy/Leningrad/Anshan/Blyskawica: If you prefer to watch videos rather than reading text, you can watch these videos by iChase and Flamu:
  21. ( ich werde den Thread nach und nach vervollständigen, Bitte auch den 2. Thread beachten ) Da WG mit dem balancing der IJN CV und der US CV noch ziemlich planlos agiert und teilweise ( mM ) ziemlichen Käse veranstaltet, warte ich mal noch ab mit einer Überarbeitung des Guides. Vorwort Willkommen bei einem Guide für Flugzeugträger. Wenn auch andere Kapitäne einen schreiben wollen/werden, könnten wir das der Übersicht halber ja, geschlossen hier tun. Wer einen leichten Befehlston entdeckt, soll sich daran nicht stören, der Verfasser ist BW geschädigt. Solltet ihr jedoch auf der Suche nach einem allgemeinen Einsteigerguide seid, findet ihr ihn hier unter diesem Link ->http://forum.worldofwarships.eu/index.php?/topic/7344-wows-beginner-guide/ Weitere Tipps aus einer WG News -> http://worldofwarships.eu/de/news/common/aircraft-carriers-faq2/ Hier noch ein toller Guide aus dem englischen Forum. Dieser fängt vielleicht noch etwas weiter vorne an und enthält noch nette Randinfos http://forum.worldofwarships.eu/index.php?/topic/7608-guide-bacic-cv-gameplay/ Der Flugzeugträger. Er unterscheidet sich grundlegend von der Spielweise, der anderen Schiffe in Ships. Man spielt ihn die meiste Zeit über die Map-Ansicht und hat sehr, sehr viele Aufgaben. Wer schnelle Action will....und einfach nur entspannt spielen, der sollte Abstand von dieser Klasse nehmen, denn dann seid ihr keine Hilfe für euer Team. Taktisches Verständnis und Kartenübersicht sind enorm wichtig. Die Gefechtssituation ändert sich quasi sekündlich, dann ihr seid überall und nicht nur an einem Punkt auf der Karte. Die Tasten ( weil siehe unten, ernsthaft danach gefragt wurde ) W Vorwärts S Stop oder Rückwärts Q Ruder Stellung Links E Ruder Stellung Rechts A D Links Rechts M Karte LMT Schiff/Flugzeug über Karte navigieren RMT Sicht über Minimap navigieren Shift+Lmt mehrere Wegpunkte setzten ALT manueller Torpedoabwurf 1 2 3 4 Die einzelnen Staffeln R Reparieren/Feuer löschen/Flutung stoppen F Flieger heim schicken. Flugzeugträger im Spiel Wie in der Realität auch, kämpft ihr fern ab der Front. Genau dass ist eure Stärke. Einmal entdeckt von einem Zerstörer, Kreuzer oder Schlachtschiff und niemand da der euch hilft, dass kann es schnell gewesen sein. Stärken Hoher Schaden ( wenn der Angriff sitzt ) Entfernung zur Front Schwächen Nahkampf DPM ( quasi 2 Attacken, alle 2-3 Minuten, verfehlt man mit den Torpedos, macht man eben keinen Schaden ) stressig/schwer zu spielen Ziele und Aufgaben Eure Ziele sind immer, immer zu erst die gegnerischen Schlachtschiffe oder, wenn möglich, die gegnerischen Flugzeugträger. Den anderen CV zu finden kostet oft Zeit, kennt ihr ihn und wisst ihr dass er eh kein so guter Spieler ist, ignoriert ihn. Konzentriert euch dann auf die Schlachtschiffe die alleine fahren, vor allem die,die keinen Kreuzer an ihrer Seite haben. Kreuzer haben nämlich eine sehr gute Luftverteidigung. Außerdem können sie ihre Y Fähigkeit aktivieren, mit der euer Torpedos zu groß auffächern. Schlachtschiffe gesunken, CV besieht und nun? Nun holt ihr euch die japanischen Kreuzer, dann die amerikanischen....und die Zerstörer enttarnt ihr mit euren Jägern und haltet sie offen. Eure Jäger sind dazu da, um euch selbst,aber auch eure verbündeten vor gegnerischen Fliegern zu schützen. Kleiner Tipp, wenn ihr dabei seit zu sterben, schickt eure Jäger zum beschützen auf eines eurer Schlachtschiffe, ihr sinkt zwar und könnt nicht mehr spielen, aber eure Jäger tun ihren Job bis ihre Munition leer ist. Beobachtet immer die Map, wo sind meine Jäger, wo tauchen Torpedobomber auf, wo sind die Gegnerjäger........ Das Schiff...wohin damit?! Bleibt weg vom Gegner, beobachtet die Map immer ganz genau. Wo bricht der Gegner durch, welche Flanke kann gehalten werden, wo Bilden meine Verbündeten einen Schutzwall für mich. Dass kann sich alles im Minutentakt ändern. Kurskorrekturen sind unumgänglich. Inseln sind euer Freund, parkt hinter ihnen, so seid ihr nicht zu sehen. Aber passt auf Aufklärer auf, die decken euch schnell auf. Aufklärer könnt ihr übrigens auch abschießen, wenn ihr dazu Zeit habt. Steht ihr hinter einen Insel, wisst ihr auch von euch euch Torpedobomber anfliegen können, solltet ihr mal entdeckt worden sein. Enge Gassen sollte man idR meiden. Aber...je weiter ihr weg seid, desto länger sind eure Flieger unterwegs........also ist es manchmal auch nicht verkehrt hinter der eigenen Flotte zu bleiben, wenn ihr merkt sie überrennen den Gegner auf einer Seite der Karte, so seid ihr nicht ganz so viel Flugzeit von euren Zielen entfernt. Flugzeugträger und Staffeln Die Flugzeugträger als solches Unterscheiden sich nicht groß. Ja die Flakks auf dem Schiff werden mehr und stärker, die HP ändern sich, aber sonst geben sich ein 4er und 8er keinen großen Unterschied. Jedoch beim load out..also den Staffeln an Bord kann es Unterschiede geben. Auch die Anzahl der Module erhöht sich, mit steigender Stufe. Nice to know ist noch, dass die Essex, die auf T10 ist, eigentlich das T9 Schiff ist. Auf T10 wird noch die Midway kommen. Grundsätzlich bevorzuge ich 2 Jäger, 2 Torpedobomber Staffeln. Sobald ihr dass auswählen könnt, ist dass ein absolutes Muss mM. Warum keine Bomber? Der Schaden ist im Vergleich zu erfolgreichen Torpedoangriffen ein Witz.....mehr ist nicht zu sagen. Warum nicht nur eine Jägerstaffel? Hat der Gegner eine Staffel mehr, seid ihr nahezu nutzlos, wenn er nicht unfähig ist. Der Kapitän Hier gibt es Fähigkeiten, welche zum Teil für jedes Schiff gelten, aber auch welche die nur für bestimmte einen Nutzen ergeben. Ich habe wie folgt gewählt: 1er Linie Grundlagen der Überlebensfähigkeit ( 15% schnellere Reperaturzeit ) 2er höchste Alarmbereitschaft ( schnellere Nachladezeit des Schadensbegrenzungstrupps ) 3er Situationsbewusstsein ( ihr seht wann ihr entdeckt werdet ) 4er Verbesserte Rottenausbildung ( schnellere Wartung der Flieger und mehr HP ) 5er Luftherrschaft ( jeweils 1 Jäger mehr pro Geschwader ) Hier ist es teils Geschmackssache was man macht. Nach dem ich das erste mal bis zur 5er bin, würde ich dann zusätzlich 1 Waffengrundausbildung ( höhere Flakeffizienz ) 2 Luftaufklärung ( höhere Sicht ) 3 tja...hier macht nichts Sinn für uns.... 4 Kurvenkampf ( 10% bessere Jäger ) 5 Tarnungskompetenz ... selbsterklärend.. nehmen. Die Module Module würde ich erst ab T5 oder T6 einbauen, je nach dem wie flüssig man ist. Später kann man natürlich jeden seiner geliebten CV tunen. Auf Slot 1 nutzen wir die Luftgruppen Modifikation 1. +10% Flakabwehrfeuer sind wunderbar. Auf Slot 2 die Luftgruppen Modifikation 2. Diese lässt unsere Jäger besser überleben. Auf 3 nun ja....sucht es euch aus. Ich finde davon nichts wirklich spannend und würde nur was einbauen. Um es zu haben... Auf 4 ..die Qual der Wahl. Ruderstellzeit...ich weiche besser aus....oder Schadensbegrenzungstrupp...ich fackel nicht so schnell ab oder gehe unter... Auf 5 Das Zielsystem macht keinen Sinn, aber Tarnung schon. Also bauen wir das Tarnsystem ein. Die Gegner Das Schlachtschiff - Euer Primärziel, langsam, unbeweglich, groß. Genau dass lieben eure Torpedos. Vorsicht....seid ihr Stufe 5 und greift ein 8ter Schlachtschiff an, verliert ihr viele Flieger an seine AA. Ist es alleine, ohne Kreuzer unterwegs und in der Nähe eurer Stufe, blast es aus den Wellen. Der Kreuzer - etwas schneller und wendiger, starke AA dazu die Y Fähgikeit, die eure Torps spreaden lässt. Nicht die beste Wahl als Ziel, aber machbar. Da schneller müsst ihr natürlich weiter vor dem Schiff die Aale zu Wasser lassen. Der Flugzeugträger - Hier ist die Stufe wichtig, seid ihr 6 und er 4...keine Angst. Auch 5 sollte euch keine Sorgen machen. Killt seine Jäger, vernichtet ihn wenn es die Zeit zulässt. Ist er höher...seine Jäger töten deine.....zieh sie über eigene Kreuzer..lass dir und deinen Jägern helfen. Schütze deine Schlachtschiffe vor seinen Bombern. Versuche dich mit 2 Staffeln Torpedobombern an ihn heran zu schleichen und schalte ihn aus. Der Zerstörer ...die Sau - Unsichtbar schleicht er sich oft über die Karte zu euch, manuell extrem schwer zu treffen da er schnell und mega wendig ist, aber auch dass geht. Dennoch, entdeckt ihr einen Zerstörer..bleibt mit euren Flugzeugen über ihm, deckt ihn auf bis eure Teammates ihn hoffentlich killen....wenn nicht....mögen die Götter mir euch sein....oder ein verflucht guter Drop. Der Torpedoangriff ( Bilder & Video folgen im nächsten Post ) Auto oder manueller Drop? Niemals Auto, ich werde darüber auch nicht reden. Jeder der wirklich Schaden machen möchte und Spaß mit diesem Gerät will, MUSS es einfach lernen seine Torpedos mit der Alt Taste abzuwerfen. Warum? Der Autodrop ist sehr ungenau und lässt dem Gegner viel Zeit zu reagieren. Dropt ihr manuell und gut, hat der Gegner teils gar keine Chance euren Aalen zu entgehen. Auto = 10 Kilo Hammer Manuell = Skalpell Die Alt Taste? Der Spread? Hier eine nette Erklärung des Spielers Hurz, Ergänzungen folgen. Hurz, on 13 March 2015 - 06:57 AM, said: Man kann, anders als bei den Schiffstorpedos, die Breite oder Fächerung der Flugzeugtorpedos beim manuellen Zielen (= ALT drücken) nicht kontrollieren. Spätere Kreuzer haben auch die Fähigkeit mit Ihren AA-Kanonen anfliegende oder nahe Torpedobomber "unter Druck zusetzen", so dass auch beim manuellen Zielen es zwangsweise zu einer (breiten) Fächerung der Torpedos kommt. Zwar kann man immer noch etwas besser treffen als beim automatischen Abwurf, aber die Genauigkeit geht deutlich verloren. Manueller Abwurf: Man wählt die Fliegergruppe aus (oder auch mehrere) die man steuern will, dann hält man "ALT" gedrückt und es erscheint an der Maus ein grüner Streifen (oder Fächer, wenn die Flieger "unter Druck stehen"). Dieser Streifen zeigt an, wie die Torpedos laufen werden, wobei sie immer von der Staffel weg laufen (logisch) und zum Ende hin laufen, wobei der Streifen NICHT die maximale Reichweite anzeigt, also aufpassen auf freundliche Schiffe hinter dem Ziel. Nun drück man einfach mit der "linken Maustaste" wenn man mit dem Zielen / Ausrichten des grünen Streifens zufrieden ist und die Flieger werden zum Anfang des Streifens fliegen und ihre Torpedos abwerfen. Hin und wieder kann es passieren, dass die Flieger noch mal vor dem Abwurf eine Ehrenrunde drehen, was das Zielen nicht unbedingt erleichtert und oftmals auch den Winkel völlig verändert. Das passiert meist dann, wenn man die Flieger schon zu nahe am Abwurfpunkt (=Anfang des grünen Streifens) sind. Es bedarf einiger Übung um nahe am Ziel und dennoch genau genug die Torpdeos ins Wasser zu bringen, aber das kommt mit der Zeit. In höheren Stufen wird es aber schwerer, da die Kreuzer und Schlachtschiffe dann mehr und bessere Luftabwehr haben. Dann muss man etwas mehr Abstand lassen und besser zielen bzw. besser vorhersagen wohin der Gegner steuern wird. Für fortgeschrittene Spieler ist die Technik, mit zwei Gruppen von zwei Seiten auf ein Ziel zuzufliegen und das schräg aus unterschiedlichen Winkeln, um so auch einen Gegner zu erwischen, der einer Salve ausweichen kann. Edit: Gerade hat er mir noch sein YT Video zukommen lassen, Danke dafür. Hier sieht man auch was passiert wenn man manuell zu nah am Zielkreis dropt ( Flugzeuge drehen einen Kreis statt zu droppen )
  22. Updates: Grosser Kurfurst 9 kills, 3k exp, fun times. Screens: Grosser Kurfurst 11min game, push enemy smoke in cap, 5 kills. Screens: Older content: 1. North Carolina 10 minute game, 190k damage [0.5.12.0] Showcasing the basics of USN North Carolina gameplay: 1. Bow tanking 2. Positioning for cap and AA cover 3. Aiming at citadels In domination game with only 1 DD per team, a battleship can lead the cap. 2. North Carolina 15min game, 191k dmg - holding flank and ram [0.5.13.1] The 2nd NC game in the series of "how to play for dummies". Starts off with positioning the ship so it is bow-on to enemy fleet and draws their fire, protecting our cruisers. Friendly DD refused to scout properly, and I was pinned down by enemy DD. 95% of the game Carolina was the foremost ship on that flank. Poor luck on shots with few citadels, but with proper positioning and pacing of damage received allowed NC to hold off a superior enemy force on that flank. Endgame - I decide to make a push vs 2 enemy Battleships on each of my sides to stop them getting through to our cruisers. I manage to finish the Fuso with nose pens, then immediately turn bow to enemy NC and finish with ram. No carriers in this game to show off the power of AA spec, as it is completely facerolling t8 and lower carriers, on top of already superior performance. 3. Yamato 18min, 90 plane kills wins the game, 3500 base exp [0.5.13.1] A very unremarkable game with only 142k damage, but that goes to show that damage is not everything. I parked my Yamato in B cap, and the enemy Midway proceeded to waste his planes on me throughout the whole game, eventually losing his TBs completely. Enemy DDs gave us this game for free - they either died quickly at the start, or went to the map edge disregarding the cap game mode. The contribution that the Yamato made was not in raw damage, but tanking the attacks of the enemy carrier and defending B cap the whole match. 4. How to: North Carolina 267k dmg, 3300 base exp, [ver.0.5.14.1] A new replay for version 0.5.14.1 to show off the North Carolina gameplay, in case older replays are not compatible. Representative game for: 1. How to position North Carolina in cap zone and be protected by island and bow armor 2. How NOT to stay broadside all the time (enemy play), a lot of citadels in this game 3. Islands OP As usual players just don't want to ram in the end of the game. No carriers in this game unfortunately.
  23. AkosJaccik

    WoWsWHY

    Welcome to „WoWsWHY”. Creative, I know... sarcasm aside, I owe you a little explanation. There are already tons of very, very good tutorials on the web about World of Warships. Problem is, that if you did not read those, chances are, you will not read this either. So, I decided to take a different approach. Instead of (visibly...) going with the usual spiel, I’ll bring up commonly asked (or more like shouted) questions and try to answer them. Aaand here comes problem two. While WoWs is a quick-to-grab arcade shooter, some of the mechanics are a bit more - well, I wouldn’t say that complex, just takes more time to explain. ...which you will still not read either, right? As such, I will try my best to provide a tl;dr answer for the issues, and then proceed to explain it with a little bit better, but preferably with as much illustration as I can. There are still some things that I can’t just explain or give my opinion about in two sentences, this is why I will not touch here things like captain builds. I could either show you an already existing, well-written (by others) 40-page documents, or just give you a very half-assed answer in a few sentences which might cause you more harm than good. Last disclaimer, I will talk about low-tier gameplay (up to T4), so you will not find extensive information about stuff like manual drops, radar, hydro or reversing with the Großer Kurfürst. TO EXPERIENCED PLAYERS: There is a fair to exceptional possibility that at one or more points I screwed up hopelessly or you just simply don't agree with me. I will gladly take any input you have and, if I can, build into the articles while of course referencing you! CURRENT ARTICLES Where did my damage go? – We are going to talk mainly about artillery and armour (to be revised) - UPDATED: 0.6.13 Where did my shells go? – Ho boy, we are in for a ride for this one... (In progress) - UPDATED: 0.6.13 Planes are cheating! – AA mechanics, speccing, passive defenses (In progress) - UPDATED: 0.6.13 Possible other shenanigans Oh my god, I am on fire! – DoT management (possible future update) Screw the torpedoboats! – the complete treaty on W-A-S-D and game sense (possible future update) I hate to play with torpedoes! – Basically, never from the second row (possible future update) I hate to play with carriers! – well... I mean, I can see why. (possible future update) I can’t see anything! – Visibility, target acquisition and it’s management (possible fu... I mean, once I'll have the means and mindset to work on it? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ )
  24. I don't post my videos here on the forums often - but with the recent launch on Steam, I figured this was a good time to produce a video on this subject (as I did for World of Tanks, many aeons ago). What Ship? // "Shut up and take my money (part deux)"
  25. Isambard_Kingdom_Brunel

    Disliked Guide #4: Atlanta

    Disliked ship guide #4: Atlanta - Underpowered or Overpowered? (For final comparison to other cruisers of the tier, skip to the 'Overall' section) At a glance: USN Tier 7 1941 Super light cruiser, won't stand up to punishment very well but can hand it out in droves! Most similar to the Cleveland, you share the extremly strong escort AA and punishing HE characteristics of this tier 6 US cruiser; interestingly, though, you also share its maneuverability. Is a specialist DD hunter, will rip any Destroyer to shreds if it's unfortunate enough to be detected near her; the sheer quantity of AP you'll broadside can also one-shot many cruisers. Extremly good credit earner, though only if you play to her strengths. She's downright punishing otherwise. Available at the store or in-game, for £31. This is a lot of money for a CL and more than HMS Belfast. First- An Opinion If you're squeamish about fragile cruisers, Atlanta probably isn't the ship for you and there's no shame in this; the same goes for many others. If, however, you love a stupid amount of firepower; you're not alone either! And so the argument of Atlanta either needing a nerf or buff come in. 'Underpowered' because she can so easily be killed by both Cruisers and Destroyers alike; 'Overpowered' because she can so easily make life a living hell for the enemy team, especially given her recent radar buff. I will say this though; I thought I'd regret dropping so many gold doubloons to buy her. I'd read so much about it being an unreliable 'troll' of a ship, yet seen so much excellent gameplay by certain CC's that I was torn down the middle. Being a US Destroyer man and loving all US cruisers, I took the plunge; and to date she's my most successful ship by kill rate and credits earned; not to mention the most used. I love Atlanta; and I hope by the end of this guide you'll have decided whether or not you will too! DISCLAIMER: Be aware of the price though. That's a lot of gold and if you feel it'd be better used converting free xp or buying camo/consumables, do that instead! Atlanta isn't for the faint of heart and if you don't get consistently good results with her she'll punish you severely. Survivability In this respect, Atlanta is a big Destroyer. Her health pool is fairly low; on a par with Omaha, meaning you need to be careful when choosing engagements. However, while her armour is pretty poor in almost every respect, the reason it remains effective isn't because it actually 'stops' shot, but more because it doesn't allow the shells to arm. Being a cruiser, Battleships will lick their lips when seeing a broadside Atlanta; 'Easy kill' being the first thing to enter their thoughts. But this is where I must crush your Battleship ego. Atlanta is surprisingly capable against battleships. 'Cowper you bloody idiot! This is the most ignorant thing you've said yet! Atlanta tanky against battleships? PAH! I one-shotted it in my cruiser just this morning!' Thing is though, imagine that was a Soviet Cruiser you'd fired at...chances are you'd have either done the same damage or more. Even against cruiser shot, Atlanta will overpen the vast majority of what you throw at it. Not to say she's particularly 'strong' against cruisers; as this is not the case at all; but rather, that she isn't as utterly pathetic against them as everyone seems to believe. Atlanta's armour scheme with only critical components selected; clearly showing a near enough non-existent armouring of the forward and upper citadel: Still don't understand what I'm getting at? Ok. So, let's put this into some context against, say, her notoriously under-protected USN tech tree counterpart. The Tier 7 US Cruiser is the CA Pensacola. She mounts ten powerful 8-inch guns and suffers from a mix of bad concealment and armour scheme. While I won't be mentioning Indianapolis much during this guide (mostly for the reason that I don't own it), it's important to deeply analyze, with great detail, where Atlanta stands with Pensacola. So here goes: Atlanta can one-shot Pensacola with more ease than Pensacola can one-shot Atlanta. No, seriously. Atlanta, while very poorly armoured, has a smaller citadel and will generally bounce/over-pen more shot than Pepsi (no, really!). Pensacola, on the other hand, if presenting Atlanta with a broadside will eat at least 6-7 citadel penetrations from a well-aimed shot of your 127mm puff guns; making one-shotting or inflicting severe damage very much a possibility. I do this more regularly than you'd expect, and it's a real shame for the Cola players but really highlights how Atlanta's armour works. Basically being a Destroyer in all ways but size and gun number, Atlanta's mostly made up of paper-thin plating. Her citadel, while protected by 85mm, will eight times out of ten overpen the majority of Battleship shot. While same or lower-tier cruisers can make breakfast out of you, if you're packing AP you can generally finish them off first. Due to this, I don't think lack of armour is a very big problem on Atlanta. Yes, you'll take a LOT of damage in 1 v 1 encounters with other cruisers; yes, giving your broadside to ANYONE is still a very, very bad idea; as with any cruiser. But angling is surprisingly effective on Atlanta; anyone who says otherwise clearly doesn't own one or hasn't even tried angling. I've outlived Scharnhorsts in 1v1 duels before simply by angling with my stern up against an island (no, really!). I think it has more to do with over-pens and super slim profile than it does with the armour actually stopping the shells, but I'm not complaining! Gameplay Strategy: Atlanta is just as soft as any other cruiser; the exception being the fact she'll overpen battleship shot with a lot more ease than thicker cruiser armour would, making her arguably better than many cruisers versus this class. Just keep the range open and dance when facing BBs; you *will* come out on top if playing smartly. Against cruisers, however, your best bet is to wait for support or use cover. Atlanta has extremly high arcing guns, meaning you can use island armour far more than they probably can. Failing all the above, angle bow-in. Not to say you can't still take great damage doing so, but you'll last far, far longer than you would at any other angle. Attack Strategy: An Atlanta on the enemy team should ALWAYS be a priority target, as their harassing fire can burn down Battleships and wreck Destroyers with radar. When fighting an Atlanta, use HE; regardless of the ship you're in but especially in a Battleship. You *won't* get all those juicy citadel hits you're expecting. In a cruiser, catching an Atlanta out in the open is best as near islands she can become highly problematic. While it is true she'll always out-spam you, 8-inch High Explosive spam can be a real problem for the low health pool Atlanta player; meaning generally they'll see their disadvantage and disengage (if they don't...well...more fool them!) Lower tier cruisers and ALL Destroyers should avoid engaging this ship completely unless they have support or no other option. NOTE: I am unaware of any changes in gameplay associated with British Cruisers. As of writing this guide, I have no experience against them with Atlanta. However, I would guess that their posh AP is fairly bad news for her thin armour when you're not angled. Caution is your best option and bombarding them with HE will probably still work! Don't forget you have radar too, negating their smoke. All in all, Atlanta is likely to be a decent British CL counter. Artillery Sorry for the length of that section, but it's vital I address longevity in this ship as it's key to understanding how to play to its strengths. Afterall, you need to know how to survive if you're going to be using the DPM machine that is Atlanta! Armed with 8x2 5-inch turrets (identical to those found on the T8+ BBs as secondaries) which have a reload time of less than 3.5s and 180 degree turret traverse of less than 6 seconds, it's fair to say you can take any enemy on through DPM alone. Having been on both the sending and receiving end of her fury many times, I can honestly say that to underestimate Atlanta, regardless of what ship you're in, is a seriously bad idea. Your bread and butter in this ship are the following: Large or isolated Battleships. Higher tier KMS and all IJN ships are perfect for this. However, US ships or BBs with support tend to be much harder to spam down range. All Destroyers. Atlanta has the capability of totally ignoring smoke when hunting. She can kill any DD in the game (including Soviet gun-boats) with ease and is dedicated to this role. All Aircraft Carriers. God-tier AAA, speed, small size and stupidly high rate of fire makes you the dread of all Carrier players. It's fair to say that there's no shortage of firepower as far as Atlanta's concerned. The AP can be beastly if fired en-masse, and the HE can whittle down even the largest, most armoured ships. This does however come with considerable drawbacks. Prepare for more death by bullet....points! Your base range is just 11km. Bismarck's secondaries almost reach further than that...and they're bigger! (AFT is an option for a 2km boost, but the presence of demo expert makes this a surprisingly difficult choice without a 14-point cap). They have the most parabolic firing arcs in the game. Ok, so this one can be advantageous if, say, you're using islands as cover. But most of the time the shell flight length is a downright annoyance. They can be knocked out fairly easily. This isn't as bad as it used to be, but be prepared to lose at least one or two turrets in the course of a good firefight. You have plenty in reserve, though! At least one wing turret will always be out of action. Not a big issue, as again, there are plenty more where that came from! I can fire at least four broadsides before the first one lands on my Atlanta. BFT and AFT make this achievable, but even on a stock captain you'll be firing almost three before the first lands. This means it's possible to have a constant stream of lava being fired into the enemy. Gameplay Strategy: You are an extremly devastating ship if given the chance to rain fire on an enemy team. Use islands for cover or let allies tank for you, while peppering the enemy from behind. The way I use this ship...imagine she's a cohort of archers firing on the enemy from behind a line of spearmen. Let your team get between you and the enemy team, only exposing yourself if absolutly necessary. The damage you add to your teams' overall attack is not inconsiderable. In fact, I'm often the one doing the most damage when focusing down an enemy ship. In duels with battleships, Atlanta can also excel given that there's an island nearby. Even if there isn't, though, dancing round in circles and only giving the enemy your broadside when they reload, all the while DPM'ing them to death is highly effective at bringing down even tier 9 BBs. Also bear in mind, that whilst you're not designed for melee, like an archer, you do carry a close quarters weapon in case you end up closer than you'd otherwise like to be... Gameplay TOP TIP: Don't just fire Atlanta's guns when you need to. Fire them CONSTANTLY, unless you intend on stealthing up. The effect the infinite stream of shells has on an enemy player's morale is enough to make even the most hardened Rank 1 veteran turn their ship away, saying 'Feck this crap, I'm out!'. Your spam is the most powerful area denial tool in the game; provided the enemy can't kill you first, that is, and I have a stupidly low hit-rate on this ship due to this (yet I'm still above the 23% average for MBH...which I guess illustrates that this is a common technique!) Your 'curtain of fire' can completely screw up the enemy team's plans; either by making them push harder to try to kill you, or by driving them away. Two or more Atlantas (or Flints, especially) can isolate enemy ships from entire halves of the map this way. Torpedoes Atlanta is one of only three US Cruisers to carry torps and the only higher tier US cruiser to mount them. While they're definitely less useful than those found on Phoenix and Omaha, it can be nice knowing they're there. Sadly, though, I can't recommend using them unless absolute need be; your guns are a much better go-to for any ship or battle type. Gameplay Strategy: It's important to note that these torps are not offensive in any way, shape or form. Not only does the 4.5km range kill any chance you have of doing this, but despite being numerous they are only mounted in one launcher per side...meaning they're a one-chance last ditch weapon to use if you find yourself hard up against an enemy with nothing left to live for. Don't get me wrong; I *have* used them offensively, albeit extremely rarely. Island ambushes are doable and given their relatively high damage output, you are very capable of putting the hurt on someone who may have forgotten Atlanta has torps (a lot of people do the whole; 'US Cruiser, that's cool it can't have torps, then' kind of thing), but beyond this I fail to see any offensive use they have. Their reload time and range also negates using them as a zone denial device (though in lower tier maps where caps are smaller, this could be an option just to keep an enemy at arm's length). AA A fully-upgraded Cleveland is capable of reaching in excess of a 75 rating on its AA guns. It'll not only ruin the day of any equal-tier carrier, but will also make higher tier carriers very, very anxious if they have to deal with one. She's legendary for this. So, imagine Atlanta as being what Pensacola and New Orleans *should* have been when it comes to AA! Atlanta is GOD-TIER.Thanks to mounting 16 5-inch dual purpose cannons, her long-range AAA has very few equals in the entire game; in fact, in per-match DPM alone she has the best AA in the entire game (yes...better than Flint! You have four more dual purpose guns than Flint can boast). This is because Atlanta and Flint both mount something nobody else can...infinite Defensive AA. You heard me, there's no limit to the amount of times you can use your AA consumable; like repair party, it's infinite! Premium makes it even more potent, allowing you to use defensive AA extremely regularly and throughout the entire match, regardless of how many planes come at you; and this alongside her DD hunting skills makes her class superior to absolutely every other cruiser from an escort perspective. If given an inch, Atlanta will take a square mile. Carriers should not mess with her under any circumstance. Combine this with her firepower, and you're the ultimate escort for Battleships. Provided you use cover wisely, you can usually out-live them too; as in this battle.It's all about finding and using strategic cover; especially when you have your AA guns going off constantly, alerting everyone to your presence! Gameplay Strategy: You'll find yourself putting the ship in harm's way just to shoot down planes. The AA really is that lethal! No CV will get a good drop on an Atlanta if it's being played smartly; even if they break through with enough birds left to make a strike (unlikely in itself), she presents such a small target you'll likely dodge pretty much all bombs and torps. Be aware, though, that losing main turrets will reduce AA effectiveness much more than on any other ship. Yes, there are Battleships with better AA ratings than Atlanta (mine has an 89 rating yet my NC is 100); but they can't mount infinite Defensive AA! That's what gives you an edge, especially long-range and against torp bombers so use it wisely and generously. A well-played Atlanta can keep half its fleet alive and totally shutdown enemy CVs. Maneuverability Atlanta is most comparable to Cleveland here as well; difference is though, in the last section that was a good thing, but here...not so much. Yes, she has a narrow profile allowing for a lot of stern wiggling and avoidance of shells; yes, she's fast enough to keep up with most other Cruisers and Battleships and yes, the helm is responsive enough to make successful torpedo beats fairly easy to execute. Sadly, however, that's it. For a ship of her weight class I find Atlanta to be extremly sluggish with an equally slow helm (even with the upgrade mounted). 32knots is what you'll make in a straight line, and even then it takes a relatively long time to get there; she'll bleed a lot of speed the second you touch the helm, too, meaning 26-29knots is what you'll in fact be making most of the time. At tier 7, you're frequently matched with ships like the Myoko which can boast a top speed that's in excess of 35knots...meaning this super light cruiser can in fact be chased down (fairly easily I might add), by heavy cruisers. In fact, Iowa has a good 1.5knots on Atlanta. I would say it's the biggest weakness of this ship; that alongside the Destroyer grade health pool, the average helm speed and the fairly noticeable silhouette the ship casts, Atlanta's speed/acceleration just isn't good enough and will get you targeted easily. This means it's out of the question to ever stop in Atlanta, as is it to go solo warrior in the hope that you'll outrun anyone who comes towards you. I blame her slow top speed on the majority of problems players have with this ship, and whilst it was hoped this would be addressed in her recent buff (in which she got radar instead), I guess you can't rewrite history. The real Atlanta's were, afterall, found to be unstable and a little unseaworthy in certain respects and that's reflected here in the poor handling characteristics Having said which, she's manoeuvrable enough to throw off battleship shot and fast enough to outrun all but the faster battleships in the game. She'll struggle to catch up with destroyers in most situations, sadly. Her helm is however faster than many cruisers around her matchmaking bracket, meaning you won't find yourself lacking too much when placed in a duel with an equal or lower tier cruiser. The recent addition of Helm Mod 2 for Tier 8's and above is undeniably a game changer, though your smaller size allows you to still be competitive to this end. Gameplay Strategy: Undoubtably her biggest weakness being maneuverability, you must play to this. Atlanta does not rely on speed to stay alive, but rather her firepower. Playing her is, then, all about using what cover you possibly can and judging accurately where you can be and how soon. Island hopping is by far the best way, as you're just fast enough to make yourself an undesirable target when jumping between islands. If caught in the open, either get behind allies or stealth up...this really is your only option. Concealment This is an area which tends to quite often split opinion. Is 10km concealment good enough on a slow, super fragile light cruiser? I tend to feel she could use a tiny bit more, personally. Certain ships, such as North Carolina and Edinburgh, for instance, which capitalise on stealth can be a serious problem. A concealment build NC or even Iowa will nuke Atlanta before it can even get the chance to fire a shot; I repeat, a 50,000 tonne battleship is almost as indistinguishable from the horizon as a 6,700 tonne light cruiser. Personally, I find this utterly ridiculous when looking at how much larger the British CL's are than Atlanta, but then as many have mentioned, WoWs isn't a very realistic game to begin with so let's instead focus on how this affects gameplay. If you don't have AFT on your captain you'll need to play extremly passively for at least the first quarter of the match. This is because your guns barely outrange your detectability. By air, you're surprisingly stealthy; which allows for some nice AA ambushes for CV's which may not be paying attention. However, I will simply reiterate what I said above; Atlanta relies on islands and allies for survival. 10km is 10km, so it's fairly easy to escape a wrathful enemy if they're slower than you and it's true, I bite off more than I can chew then stealth up very regularly and live to tell the tale. It's not awful. But it's definitly something to be aware of and I guess if she had it much lower, it'd make Flint's smoke less competitive when fighting an Atlanta; not to mention Destroyers who find themselves on an Atlanta warpath. So it's all about being intelligent with your positioning (moreso than with most other ships) and having an acute understanding of the game's spotting dynamics. Given that Ocean doesn't appear much anymore, you'll pretty much always have islands to use for concealment. Gameplay Strategy: Many argue that 10km may not be perfect but that it's enough for a ship as powerful as Atlanta, and for a skilled player I mostly agree that it is. Just bear in mind what I've said above; you're no destroyer and as cruisers go you can still be out-spotted by clever cruiser captains. This means you can not (and should not) rely on stealth in the majority of combat situations. Luckily, Atlanta will find herself on many larger maps at this tier, so a 'measly' 10km gives the enemy substantially less chance of spotting her than it would otherwise. Just ensure you use radar correctly if you suspect a DD is lighting you up; the 8.5km range gives you just enough to make their lives harder. It's important to note that DDs just love doing this to enemy Atlanta's as it makes them feel masculine and in control. Don't let it happen as they will get you killed! Radar No Atlanta overview would be complete without a small word on her trump card; Radar. Sadly, with the introduction of HMS Belfast and continued existence of USS Indianapolis, this is no longer such a unique trait at tier 7. Nevertheless, combined with the firepower discussed above, it can make her truly fearsome for any Destroyer or lurking cruiser. With an 8.5km range and fairly respectable activity length, it's a good idea to use this either when you have a lot of allies around you (to capitalize on their firepower in finishing off the DD) or if you have no choice but to enter a cap circle which is saturated with smoke. These are the two most likely scenarios, however, the ability to light up a Destroyer is always a welcome one and, as mentioned above, can negate their concealment if you find yourself being lit up by one. With her rapidly firing guns, well-aimed shots should be able to finish it off before the ability is on cool-down again. I see Belfast and Indianapolis players constantly using their Radar but not being able to utilize it as fully as Atlanta can, mostly due to their slower reloading guns. It's the combination of the two which makes Atlanta certain death for Destroyer and, in my eyes at least, more effective than Belfast or any British CL at this duty due to how rapidly and readily she can dispatch of Destroyers, negating the need for hydro or smoke for self-defense... Game-play Strategy: Dancing with Destroyers isn't a walk in the park with Atlanta, due to her bad maneuverability. Thankfully, it's good enough that once Radar is popped you shouldn't have much trouble at all finishing the little blighters off from range (>8k). Her slow shell velocity can make it hard to pin them down, but the sheer quantity can normally catch them out regardless. Overall Let’s see how she compares overall with Belfast, Pensacola, Indianapolis, Myoko, Fiji, Yorck and Schors (I class Flint as pretty much the same ship so I won't be counting her). Survivability: 4/8 – I'd say that she's definitely harder to kill than Pensacola, Myoko and Fiji, due to how overpen and angling works with her. BBs need to so much as look at these ships and they get penned; not so with Atlanta. Artillery: 6/8 – This is kind of like comparing a set of keys to a pen; you just can't, at least not accurately, as they're two totally different things. However, for raw damage-dealing and DPM potential, Atlanta can quite simply dish it out more than the other tier 7's, with the exception of the other two US Cruisers due to their super-hero AP. AA: 8/8 – Absolutely no contest, Atlanta's AA capabilities are heads and shoulders above the others. Maneuverability: 3/8 – I'd say she only beats Schors and Yorck for this. When I played those ships they felt very heavy in the turns, whereas Atlanta doesn't. Concealment: 8/8 – Again, this one isn't really fair on the other cruisers. Yes, Belfast comes close, but 10km/4km stock concealment puts her on top. Ideal Build (In my opinion; these are only recommended and you can do whatever you feel is best!) Captain Skills (Based on a 15-point cap) 1 Point: Basic Firing Training. This will buff your main battery ROF and AA to obscene levels. Very nice! 1 Point: Basics of Survivability. Not the most important perk here, but faster fire burn-out and turret repair is always fun on Atlanta. 2 Points: Long range Artillery Indicator. Atlanta is a slow turner for her size, so advance warning is always good to have. 3 Points: Vigilance. Hunting DDs makes this mandatory. 4 Points: Advanced Firing Training. This is an absolute must. Not only will it make your AA extend out to a whopping 7.6km, but also your main battery to a respectable 13.6km. Great for area denial. 4 Points: Demolition Expert. I tend not to ascribe to this on most other ships, but for Atlanta I can absolutely 100% see the difference it makes. Get it! You won't be disappointed... 5 Points (in lieu of a BoS and a 4-point skill) Concealment Expert. Worth its weight in gold on a ship like Atlanta which is meant to hunt stealthily. Upgrades 1st Slot: Main Battery Modification. Your Turrets can and will fall like flies. 2nd Slot: AA Modification. Because everything else available is useless on Atlanta and this'll make her AA truly lethal at range. 3rd Slot: Damage Control. Fires and torpedoes will sink you more than losing your helm or engine on Atlanta. I would however say that helm is more useful than Engine if you don't want Damage Control. 4th Slot: Helm Speed. Acceleration *is* an option on Atlanta, but personally I find a fast helm negates her awful maneuverability a little better, especially when avoiding incoming. I actually used stock consumables on Atlanta and do fine for it, but if you really must spend credits/doubloons and there are lots of CVs about, Defensive AA II is the way to go. Wise use of Radar means it'll be a very rare situation in which you're waiting for Radar cooldown; if you find the cooldown too long, you're not using it correctly. Having said which, the extra burst *might* come in handy if you find yourself cleaning up DDs at the end of every game. Signals and Camo I cannot recommend any flags in particular for Atlanta. Most of them will serve her well, especially if you're using her to train a captain for another ship. Repair cost reduction and XP boosters are normally a very strong choice, though. The first because she gets targeted a lot meaning surprise trips back to port aren't unheard of; the second because this ship will give you 15 point captains very fast, if used correctly. The premium camo she comes with is great and I wouldn't recommend mounting anything else unless you *really* have to. I would also heavily recommend against ever using a camo which doesn't reduce enemy dispersion, as this ship relies on that aspect of her camo. Conclusion Atlanta's a difficult ship to pin down, though I wouldn't say she need either a buff or nerf. On the one hand, she can devastate anything which she gets her paws on with the tenacity of a Cleveland with two Mahans strapped to each side. On the other, she's somewhat soft and easy to be found out of position in; especially if the MM is cruiser heavy. The best thing I can say is this; if you don't enjoy US Destroyer play, don't buy Atlanta. She shares a lot of their characteristics, especially higher tier, and whilst it's true she has more guns than she knows what to do with; they won't help you if a full-health Battle fleet catches you in open water. Her maneuverability is as much of a disgrace to the USN name as the low tier British CLs are to the RN name, and you'll find that most of the time you'll be relying on scaring the enemy off with a never-ending stream of lava for survival. All in all, I'd say: If you want a multi-purpose Destroyer hunter with fast guns and good capping ability, go Belfast or Fiji. If you want a gun-ship with excellent gun characteristics, radar and comparatively good longevity, go Indianapolis (Or Pensacola if you don't mind sailing a citadel) If you want a solo-warrior, capable of launching both long-range and short-range strikes with ease, go Myoko. If you want a balance of good guns, torps and AA, go Schors. If you want a high-calibre HE slinger, go Yorck. ...but if you want an absurdly powerful DPM machine with downright lethal AA, yet aren't put off by a high skill floor, buy Atlanta.
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